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Filling the void (gas tank) (Read 231 times)
botticelli
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Filling the void (gas tank)
04/10/15 at 14:01:50
 
Filling the void (gas tank)

I was wondering if anyone decided to just seal up that ridiculous hole on top of the gas tank?

My desire is to increase the capacity / and the ascetics of the tank.
I don't plan to re-use the hole for the ignition, as per ryca's instructions.

Close the top smooth, and then remove the wall of the speedo hole / cup holder.

Before, sending to Ryca for the section down. I'm sure it would free up a lot of capacity.


Thoughts?
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Dave
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #1 - 04/10/15 at 14:07:07
 
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botticelli
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #2 - 04/10/15 at 14:19:10
 
Thanks Dave

Do you know if its being used to up the tank capacity? any idea on how much you gain?
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Serowbot
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OK.... so what's the
speed of dark?

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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #3 - 04/10/15 at 15:03:58
 
As you said... "cup holder"...
Looks to me, as though it might add a pint, but.... since we don't fill beyond the limit of the filler hole, I doubt you would even gain a half pint of useable volume...
It might turn our 2.8 gallon tank into a 2.9 gallon...
That's about it...
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Kenny G
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #4 - 04/10/15 at 18:30:22
 
Ryca is selling enough Cafe Racer Kits that they should soon develop their own gas tank that looks like it belongs on a cafe racer.

Kenny G
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #5 - 04/14/15 at 17:13:25
 
Yea, you wouldn't gain much, and getting the welds to not leak would be really tough in that position.  We fabricated our own tank for our custom CS-1 build, and we simply welded a plate over the hole, ground it flat and filled it and it looks factory smooth.  Left the keyswitch in the factory location and left it at that.  It would take a lot of effort for no real gain.
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botticelli
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #6 - 04/20/15 at 07:53:27
 
I think this is the route I'm going. My welding abilities are middle of the road, on a good day. Gonna just put a plate over it an get it as smooth as I can, in an effort to avoid a mountain of bondo.


savagelocal wrote on 04/14/15 at 17:13:25:
Yea, you wouldn't gain much, and getting the welds to not leak would be really tough in that position.  We fabricated our own tank for our custom CS-1 build, and we simply welded a plate over the hole, ground it flat and filled it and it looks factory smooth.  Left the keyswitch in the factory location and left it at that.  It would take a lot of effort for no real gain.  

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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #7 - 04/20/15 at 11:31:50
 
botticelli wrote on 04/10/15 at 14:01:50:
Filling the void (gas tank)

I was wondering if anyone decided to just seal up that ridiculous hole on top of the gas tank?

My desire is to increase the capacity / and the ascetics of the tank....

As far as I can see, the others just covered the top hole, for ascetics.  To gain capacity you need to cut top and bottom and remove the sides.  I tried.  Got a spare tank off eBay for working, removed the center hole, sliced it in half horizonally with the intent of raising it about 1.5 inches, went to fill the top/bottom holes and found out that I am a pitiful welder.

But if you are good enough, raising the height of the tank would be not noticeably taller and you will end up with over 4 gallons.
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Dave
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #8 - 04/20/15 at 12:50:35
 
The one tank I did I drilled a few holes in the sides of the speedometer hole to allow fuel to flow in/out of it, then welded up the bottom and top with a flat piece of metal.  Then tested the welds by putting a couple of pound of air pressure in the tank and tested the welds with soapy water and a brush....found a couple pinholes on the bottom weld that needed to be fixed.  I then coated the inside of the tank with sealer to be double sure and to protect the tank from ethanol damage.

So....I suppose it gained a pint or so of volume..  
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« Last Edit: 04/22/15 at 11:11:47 by Dave »  

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botticelli
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #9 - 04/21/15 at 20:00:36
 
Dave,

Not a bad idea, using speed holes on the wall of the speedo tunnel. I suppose as long as there were drilled to not trap gas there and drain into the "main tank' properly i think this is worth a shot.
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #10 - 04/22/15 at 10:58:30
 
yep just done for aesthetic purposes. I love the look and shape of the stock tank and couldn't find a custom one that came close to it. That and the wonder of the channel being big enough for the backbone. I figured go with what I already know. Also took Dave's idea about drilling holes inside the speedo for more fuel capacity, not much though. Also his advice and tips about this job and gave it to a more experieced welder. I cant weld for crap on days that end in Y.  Holes for more fuel or not if your covering the top hole that lip seperates. I would get some tips from Dave he was very helpful with my tank project. Now if y'all will excuse me Imma go drool over Dave's tank once more and hope mine turns out that smooth. Cheesy
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Dave
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #11 - 04/23/15 at 14:04:32
 
Here is what it looked like in primer:





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botticelli
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #12 - 04/23/15 at 18:03:41
 
Dave,

Thanks for the photos

Looks oh so much better!

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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #13 - 04/23/15 at 22:44:24
 
My welding is not so hot, but my brazing is pretty good. Would brazing work?
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Dave
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Re: Filling the void (gas tank)
Reply #14 - 04/24/15 at 02:54:15
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 04/23/15 at 22:44:24:
My welding is not so hot, but my brazing is pretty good. Would brazing work?


Yes - but significantly more warping occurs from the heat needed to melt the brass rod.

Solder is an even better way if you can make a lap joint and the metal is clean.  Solder is a very good way to attach metal together for things like tanks.....all fuel tanks used to be soldered together before they developed ways to weld seams together with rollers and mig welders.

The relocated fuel tap mount on my tank is a piece of 1/8" steel that was shaped and the holes threaded, and then soldered to the bottom of the tank.  It is best to use a liquid flux made for steel, and then use a solder that does not have any flux inside the core.  Acid core solder will work - but it is a bit messy and hard to do a clean job, as every time you add a bit of solder you get another load of flux as well.

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« Last Edit: 04/24/15 at 04:40:31 by Dave »  

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