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Tachometer Installation (Read 2089 times)
T140V
Ex Member
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #30 -
02/12/18 at 20:09:06
I’m never happy with some mods. I’ve moved the tach to the other side of the bar clamp. I’m still not sure of this location or the mount.
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626D2E0D-276F-4E9A-8547-25D639F28412.jpeg
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T140V
Ex Member
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #31 -
02/12/18 at 20:09:43
2
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D5E2B0CE-F46F-4333-8F73-61BEF6D72BC3.jpeg
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T140V
Ex Member
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #32 -
02/12/18 at 20:10:41
3
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buster6315
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Posts: 375
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #33 -
03/06/18 at 18:43:23
Very nice looking installations indeed!
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T140V
Ex Member
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #34 -
03/07/18 at 02:06:39
Thanks buster I’m getting used to it but if I make anymore changes to it I’ll post them here.
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gtenginerd
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #35 -
09/24/20 at 13:37:51
Since RYCA isn't selling parts anymore, does anyone know a different tach that can be installed?
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T140V
Ex Member
Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #36 -
09/24/20 at 23:41:38
I found quite a few on eBay. Your ignition sparks on every stroke so I bought a tach made for a twin per the guys on this website and it worked great. They sell for around $15.00 -$30.00 with free shipping.
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DragBikeMike
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #37 -
09/25/20 at 23:30:59
This Drag Specialties unit is a bit more expensive but it works and is an exact replacement for the Ryca mini-tach.
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brian.b
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #38 -
10/24/22 at 06:00:12
maybe a dumb question,,, why use the + from the horn ?
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Todd James
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #39 -
10/24/22 at 21:42:32
When you install the tachometer, it's positive (+) wire must
be connected to any wire on the bike that has positive voltage
when - and only when - the ignition switch is "On".
The positive wire connected to the horn is one of those wires.
(The negative horn wire is the one that gets switched by the
horn button).
There are many other ignition-switched positive (+) wires on the
bike you could choose for the tachometer connection instead.
It just so happens that the horn is close to both the coil and a
grounded screw where the other two tachometer wires attach.
That makes it a handy connection point without the need to
extend the tachometer's positive lead wire to somewhere else.
Note that you could connect the tachometer's positive wire to
the positive terminal on the coil. (Many people do).
I just prefer a more remote source (like the horn) to reduce
the chances of coil-trigger voltage spikes from damaging
the tachometer.
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2007 S40, Dyna, 52.5/150, .073 Spacer, 2 Turns
2007 Sportster 1200, V&H Pipes
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HricakSavage
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #40 -
06/12/23 at 11:33:37
Todd James,
It seems you have the most recent post on this forum with regards to properly wiring a tachometer.
I’m having a heck of a time trying to get my Dime City Cycle tachometer to function / turn on.
I have the Tacho’ seed (power) and yellow (backlight) wired to the B/R of the horn, black connected to bike frame, and green (negative) connected to B/Y of ignition coil. The closest I’ve got to it working is when I turn the ignition to ON, the tacho dial runs up then returns to 0, but no BACKLIGHT. The Horn still works so I don’t think that is the problem…anything you can think of that might be an issue…?
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Ruttly
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #41 -
06/14/23 at 13:29:58
T140V , Where did you get those bars ? Very cool , very European.
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Todd James
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #42 -
06/20/23 at 21:01:20
HricakSavage :
The wiring is correct as you describe it.
If the tachometer is not faulty, the only
idea I have is that your Black wire
may not be making a good connection to
battery ground (Negative) through the
frame of your bike.
Obtaining a good Battery Ground connection
through the frame of a vehicle is often
difficult or unreliable.
However ... Note that the tachometer also
receives a separate ground signal through
the Green wire connected to the coil.
Normally this is a pulsed negative voltage
from the Ignition Control Module that
triggers the coil to fire the spark plug at
the proper times when the engine is running.
The coil also receives a negative voltage
whenever the ignition switch is turned "On"
and that is what causes the dial to
spin up to full RPM and back briefly.
That's normal with these tachometers.
But it may be misleading you to think
that you don't have a wiring problem.
.. If the black wire has a faulty
ground connection then the electronics
(and the back light) are not receiving the
continuous negative voltage they need
to work properly.
Try connecting a jumper wire from the
negative post of the battery to the black
wire to see if that corrects the problem.
Please let us know.
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«
Last Edit: 06/20/23 at 22:33:13 by Todd James
»
2007 S40, Dyna, 52.5/150, .073 Spacer, 2 Turns
2007 Sportster 1200, V&H Pipes
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HricakSavage
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #43 -
06/26/23 at 20:20:14
Thank you Todd! (I’m still new so the forum doesn’t let me PM yet..)
So I found when I was missing SOME connection (any single wire), I was not getting anything (not even initial dial jumping up then returning down after turning power on…)
I ended up getting replacement tacho sent to me by dime city cycles, and it WORKED. I think it was Faulty backlight wire…The fact that needle was jumping to begin with, led me to believe everything was wired correctly but just that something was wrong with actual backlight.
So all the wiring was as you’d expect it to be, but with new tacho, I now have backlight! So there was a happy ending to this problem and there were no wiring-curveballs lol
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Todd James
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Re: Tachometer Installation
Reply #44 -
06/26/23 at 20:40:46
HricakSavage :
We're glad you sorted it out.
.... and thanks for letting us
know the outcome !
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2007 S40, Dyna, 52.5/150, .073 Spacer, 2 Turns
2007 Sportster 1200, V&H Pipes
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