What is the purpose??? I have the 150 main and 55 pilot put in that I received in the lancer jetset. Lancer sent me 3 little washers that when stacked add to about 2/3 the thickness of the stock spacer on the needle jet. Do I just those or do I have to use a plastic #4 spacer? What will this mod do??

I did the #55 pilot because where I live I am around 1300 ft above sea level here in nw arkansas. I read on the 4 things all owners should know thread that I need to change to a 55 pilot

its no problem! The bike has a harley sportser exhaust, and I want to put a k&n drop in in the airbox. I had a question about the door to the side. Can I leave the door off and put the metal cover back on to let more air in and that be fine with the rejetting?

Should I stick with that #55 pilot or should I go back down?

And should I do the spacer mod?

Will do! I should have it done by the end of the week. Waiting on my versy it didnt come in today like it was supposed to. What pilot are you running in your carb?

Don't mean to hijack the thread but i think my questions will help both of us. I bought a savage  that came with a supertrapp exhaust that was fully open (no baffle plates on the end) and it looks like the stock carb was running lean as the pipe is awful blue.  I am in the process of cleaning the carb/tank and wondering as well should I use a couple #4 washers like these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/281282845145?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1...  in place of the stock spacer?  Also  should i use your jetting suggestions of (At or near sea-level... Swap to a #150 main jet, and a #52.5 pilot..) for the supertrapp with a stock filter or can i get by with stock carb jets and just turn the idle air screw out? (it was at 1.5 turns out for the stock setting).   I am at sea level and i also have 8 of the baffle plates that go on the end of the supertrapp and i read you can mimic the stock muffler back pressure with a certain amount installed i Don't need tonnes of power at the moment i just want it to run smoothly and not too lean.

When I work on a carb and need to get to the slide or remove the whole carb....I remove the seat, tank, and battery box.....then the carb is easy to remove and install.  Taking those parts off only takes about 5 minutes when you have done it a few times.  While the carb is out I replace the phillips screws with ones that accept allen wrenches.  Then I can do jet changes easily as the float bowl screws can be dropped out with everthing elese in place.....and only when the carb needs to come out do I go through the process of removing the seat, tank and battery box.

sweet I may do that battery box. Already ahead of you guys on the bolts with allen heads. Verslagen the tensioner is on and ready to roll.  

Serowbot wrote on 05/13/14 at 13:38:36:


The bike is running great!   only thing is I backed out the airmix screw one turn counterclockwise and the bike is still backfiring. should I move it out more? I did the can thing for my muffler, and my exhaust gasket is new. other than that its running great