Anyone know if I need to replace the cable coming from the magneto, do I have to buy the whole Magneto assembly, or do I have the option of just buying the cable.  The cable that I have coming out of the engine is cut.

Never have done it on a Savage personally, but a common connection method on spark plug wires is a long threaded brass barb that goes inside the thick ignition wire jacket (barb is pushed in with the woven wires which move out to give it room).  Then the factory glues the whole thing shut/together so it won't come apart or let any moisture into the coil assembly.   Careful work with an Exacto knife can expose the barb to be used again with a new piece of spark plug cable that you can get from an auto parts store (or off an old care spark plug wiring set you happen to have laying around).

Other forums list detailed methods to trim the wire and rubber from the junction and to use a non-metal filled epoxy or a hard setting silicone to attach the newly pushed on cable.   Use Google to find them.

Here is one with what seems to be pretty complete information.  It isn't Savage so take the stuff about the internal resistor values with a grain of salt.

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/PlugCapsnCoils.htm

Example:

Coil Wires

    Note that the coil wire actually IS replaceable. It's metallic wire (non-resistive), not carbon, and can be carefully removed and replaced.
   NGK Sell Coil Wires WITH Caps, but you will need one with the 5kohm resistor and preferably the correct shape. I am sure they also sell Coil Wires separately, or you can purchase Coil Wires from any automotive shop. You will need 0 kohm Coil Wires. To replace the wires:

1.       Remove the Gas Tank.

2.       The Coil will be exposed. Pull the red wire off the Spade Connector at the back of the Coil.

3.       Remove the Two Bolts at the Coil and free the unit and wires from the Bike.

4.       Peel back the Rubber Cap at the Coil. Both ends of my OEM coil wire were glued in with some sort of (dried) black adhesive sealer, similar to Yamabond/ThreeBond 1209, making an almost permanent connection.  It was very difficult to get the wire to break loose. While dielectric grease is OK when replacing the Rubber, in the case of such a critical wire that might break loose when handling the spark plug caps, I prefer the permanency of the Yamabond/ThreeBond 1209 glue/sealant. It's also there to keep water out.

5.       Now, grip the wire right next to the Coil, either by hand if you have a strong grip, or with a pair of pliers (NOT ViseGrips and don't hold too tightly), and unscrew the Coil from the wire. It easier to do this than undoing the wire from the Coil.

6.       If you have new wires and Caps all moulded together, put the OLD rubber boot over the wire, with the wide end facing the end of the wire. Pull it up and peel it back so about 1-1 1/2 of Coil Wire are exposed.

7.       Inserting the point of the Coil Screw in the centre of the new Coil Wire, and holding the Coil Wire firmly (it should NOT be allowed to twist excessively) screw the Coil onto the on the new Wire until you feel the Wire butt up to the end of the Blind Hole in the Cap. (The Wire will start to turn with the Coil, at which point you should stop immediately - Do NOT try to overtighten.)

8.       Finally pull the rubber boot down the wire toward the Cap, until you can pull the boot over the new Cap. Repeat for the other Cap. That's it. You MIGHT like to test it before you start. See above for the testing procedure.


If this is too much trouble for you, then type the part number for the coil into Ebay and check the supply of used parts -- Pinwheel may have just what you need for about half the cost of a new one.