I finally got the bike idling without any obvious problems and the front brakes to work (still need to be cleaned out) and decided to take it around the block very slowly just to see how she ran.  As soon as I popped it into first gear, the clutch didn't sound like it disengaged, and it died.  I began adjusting the clutch cable and then realized that something wasn't right.  No matter how I adjusted the cable length, the clutch lever would not return to its original position.  There was complete slack through the entire traveling length of the lever.

My first thought was that the cable had stretched beyond its limit.  Then I began looking at the release arm and its indicator marks.  I have searched the forum for a related problem, but no one else's symptoms seemed to match mine.  Here's what I found:

If I apply a little pressure (very little), this is the arm's fully down position.  When I let go it stays like this.



I can pull it up slightly, let go, and it stays like this.



If I push it up as far as it will go, this is where it stops.  When I let go, it moves back to the previous position.



Here is a picture of how far the cable sticks out of the cable adjuster.  Does this look too long?  The lever end of the cable is screwed ALL THE WAY IN TOWARDS THE LEVER.



It really seems like the spring inside the crankcase cover isn't providing enough downward pressure on the release arm.  This was last assembled by someone else.  It is possible something wasn't done right.  I just wanted to get your opinions before I broke into that thing.

Thanks for your help!

You say you did all your research already, but you don't use the rubber band method to check your "effective" pushrod length using the case marks, which is the starting point for figuring out clutch issues.

May need to go to the Table of Contents and look a little harder .....  

??!!  What in the world  !!??

.....  the "How to Adjust Your Clutch (with clutch rods explained) link isn't there in the table of Contents any more.  

Rats.  You'll have to do a search.



Something for the Moderators to do in their spare time, I guess.

JOG- Yes, I can move it by hand through the range of motion in the pictures. What would the clutch throwout be referred to as in my Clymer manual?

Run the clutch tensioner at the bars out until the gap closes, lock it down with the big ring. Then give it a pull and see if it made any difference. If it didn't help, pull the exhaust pipe and right side foot controls, take off the outer engine case and give us some pics. Clutch pack and inside the engine cover, as they were removed, do not touch the guts of either assembly until we see the as pulled pics.

And here it is installed.

The rod sticks out about 7/16 of an inch. I shouldn't be able to push this rod in at all, correct? Because I can't.

NOw that its sittin that way, just to prove that clutch pack hadnt jhammed on that busted piece, Id grab a few bolts & slap the cover on, no gasket, no oil, no nothin,, just hook the clutch cable up & see if it can be adjusted,,dont try to disengage the clutch, dont squeeze the lever, just see if you can adjust the cable so the lever ,, heck! There it is,, the Lever!,, just slap the cover on & see if how the lever on the engine is different now, 2 or 3 bolts, no need to even torque them, just snug them down easy & see if that lever still flops up & down, dont get "Big Man" on it,, because all the pressure will be applied to just whatever bolts you put in, dont risk loading that cover up wonky,


edit

when you took the cover off, did you hear, see or feel anything that would make you believe the clutch pack was hung " disengaged" on that broken spot? can you see a sign of anything having pressed on the end of the busted spot?

cant believe i missed that,, but then,, i cant believe someone would do that,, my bad,,