I found a set of Saddelmen Cruzin bags with the shock cut out on-line for $85, new in box. So, I needed to move the rear signals but have few tools, no talent, and even less patience. I also wanted to do it on the cheap. If cheap fails, I can always buy an aftermarker kit. But where is the fun in that? So I made a light bar out of PVC and mounted it to the back (tire side) of the license plate bracket using the top bolts that hold the plate. See pictures. This is a 2007, your bike may be different.


Material
Most of this I had around the gargage:
8.5 " length of 1/2" ID PCV
3/4" nylon clamps
18 gauge bell wire
black spray paint
1/4" nylon washers
Tools
Hack saw
Dremel with drum sander
Drill and bits
Screw driver
Utility knife
Soldering iron and rosin core electrical solder
Electrical tape
Metric socket set, Metric wrench set, and metric Allen keys
Impact screw driver

Steps
Remove seat
Unplug turn signal connections. Remove any wire ties.
Remove side rails
Remove turn signals from rail (this is where the impact screw driver came in)
Cut PVC to length. I used 8 1/2" but suit yourself. Make sure the signal set screw will extend far enough out from the side of the license plate so it will clear the nylon clamps.
Mark a centerline down the length of the PVC
Using Dremel. reduce the interior wall thickness checking for a snug fit as you go.
Measure 3/8" in from the ends on the centerline for turn signal retaining screw and drill.
Mark a centerline on the top center of the tube and cut a 1" long by 1/4" wide slot for the signal wires using a drill and utility knife.
Sand, soapy scrub down, dry, and paint.
Mount the signals to the ends of the PVC while snaking the cables through the slot.
Use a 1/4" nylon washer between the set screw and PVC to keep the screw from bottoming out and damaging the cables in the signal housing.
Snake two lenths of bell wire through the gromet in the top of the fender. Leave enough slack on both sides to work with.
Cut off the connectors from the turn signal leads leaving enough to solder to later. Do not lose! I plugged them back into the female side of the connector under the seat.
Strip the signal leads and ends of the bell wire. Solder to taste, white to black/white and red to whatever is left. Tape securely.
Mount the bar to the tire side of the license plate bracket using 3/4" nylon clamps. Make sure it is centered and the signals are level.
Wire tie the two leads to the license plate light wire under the fender at one or two spots.
Use the bell wire as a pull string and gently pull the signal leads back through the top of the fender.
Pull the bell wire over to the connectors and cut to length. leave some extra.
Again, strip and solder the bell wire to the connectors. White to black/white and red to whatever is left.
Tape securely and plug them in. Don't worry about left or right, you can switch them when you test.
Wire tie the leads and replace any wire ties removed earlier.
Test.
Put it all back together and post a picture of yours that will look a whole lot better than what I came up with.

For what it is worth

here's another approach

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1265238686

and another

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1118286882