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Very bad cranking (Read 714 times)
mmg123
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #15 - 08/06/12 at 21:31:46
 
I have borrowed the starter off my friends bike and its still the same
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #16 - 08/06/12 at 21:35:54
 
Hit the starter, touch the solenoid, touch connectors, resistive connections create heat. If the solenoid isnt making good connection inside, it otta get hot, or, you could just get one outta a junk yard & wire it in for a test.

Shouldnt cost more tha $4.00
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Cavi Mike
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #17 - 08/06/12 at 23:44:27
 
The easiest way to tell if the contacts are bad in the solenoid is to simply bridge the terminals with a screwdriver. If the bike turns over faster, it's the solenoid.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #18 - 08/07/12 at 00:42:13
 
Or, bypass it by jumping it off with cables.

If youre gonna bypass it with a screwdriver, make sure you jump Big Wire to Big Wire & not just hitting the small leads that fire the solenoid.
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87 savage
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #19 - 08/07/12 at 02:29:37
 
mmg123 wrote on 08/06/12 at 21:31:46:
I have borrowed the starter off my friends bike and its still the same


Hey Routy, read my lips, If your going to trouble shoot cranking issues the first thing you check is battery voltage. Yes  I read that he has a new battery in the first sentence but you cant assume it's fully charged. Gotta actually check it with a multimeter. Roll Eyes

Mmg123, do you have a multimeter or can you borrow one? Your working in the dark without one. Check the battery voltage, then check it at the starter when cranking. Like John in Kali said there should be very little drop in voltage.
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Routy
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #20 - 08/07/12 at 08:16:06
 
87 savage wrote on 08/07/12 at 02:29:37:
mmg123 wrote on 08/06/12 at 21:31:46:
I have borrowed the starter off my friends bike and its still the same


Hey Routy, read my lips, If your going to trouble shoot cranking issues the first thing you check is battery voltage. Yes  I read that he has a new battery in the first sentence but you cant assume it's fully charged. Gotta actually check it with a multimeter. Roll Eyes

Mmg123, do you have a multimeter or can you borrow one? Your working in the dark without one. Check the battery voltage, then check it at the starter when cranking. Like John in Kali said there should be very little drop in voltage.


Well pardon me,....did you read where he had a car battery jumpered to the new fully charged battery too ? I guess I just assumed w/ 750
CCA, it mite have enuff voltage to spin it normally.
BTW, on a brand new OEM battery the voltage drops from 12.6 to 10.5  while starting,......slightly more than "very little"
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Rich
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #21 - 08/07/12 at 09:20:02
 
Since the starter, being the Only Part that actually USES any Current in the starting cycle ( except for the current used to close the solenoid), has been cleared, & since we have seen evidence of PLenty of Amperage being available, AND since we know all the wires are actually connected, because it Does Spin, just not well, we are left with Only One REal potential problem. Resistance to current flow.. One MOre Time..
Hit the starter & start touching things,, you feel heat, you found resistance.
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mmg123
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #22 - 08/07/12 at 09:26:22
 
Thank you a i am in the process of getting a multimeter and i am going to put battery back on charge This is doing my head in but all is a part of the learning about the bike i love Thanks guys will keep you updated
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #23 - 08/07/12 at 09:26:26
 
mmg123 wrote on 07/31/12 at 05:06:23:
And if you take off either jump lead the bike runs bad and clock lights flicker

Normal, needs battery to smooth out voltage.

Quote:
put pos lead back on its fine It seem has thou its drawing a lot of power to me because it use to whiz over when cranking

Did you have the stator cover off lately?
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John in Kalifornia
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #24 - 08/07/12 at 12:53:10
 
Once you get the meter, it should be easy to figure out the problem. I would suggest getting some alligator clip jumper cables to connect the meter to the places to be measured. Then you can hit the starter button with one hand and hold the meter with the other and not have the test leads come loose while things are in motion.

Most cheap meters are 3 ½ digits, which mean that they will measure down to one one--hundredth of a volt on the 20 volt range.

What is the voltage across the starter when cranking? I bet it’s a pretty low value. To narrow the problem down, take readings both at rest and while the starter is being operated at the following places:


Battery positive to battery negative

Battery negative to starter body (use a mounting bolt head)

Battery positive to starter solenoid- battery side

Starter solenoid battery side to starter solenoid- starter side

Starter solenoid starter side to starter power in

I bet you will find a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit, or that the battery just doesn’t have enough juice. You said you also used a jumper cable from a car battery. What was the voltage drop from the car battery to the starter while cranking? Your jumper cables may not be making good contact.  I’m suspecting that there is a bad cable or connection somewhere.

John in Kalifornia
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Routy
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #25 - 08/07/12 at 16:26:23
 
John in Kalifornia wrote on 08/07/12 at 12:53:10:
Once you get the meter, it should be easy to figure out the problem. I would suggest getting some alligator clip jumper cables to connect the meter to the places to be measured. Then you can hit the starter button with one hand and hold the meter with the other and not have the test leads come loose while things are in motion.

Most cheap meters are 3 ½ digits, which mean that they will measure down to one one--hundredth of a volt on the 20 volt range.

What is the voltage across the starter when cranking? I bet it’s a pretty low value. To narrow the problem down, take readings both at rest and while the starter is being operated at the following places:


Battery positive to battery negative

Battery negative to starter body (use a mounting bolt head)

Battery positive to starter solenoid- battery side

Starter solenoid battery side to starter solenoid- starter side

Starter solenoid starter side to starter power in

I bet you will find a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit, or that the battery just doesn’t have enough juice. You said you also used a jumper cable from a car battery. What was the voltage drop from the car battery to the starter while cranking? Your jumper cables may not be making good contact.  I’m suspecting that there is a bad cable or connection somewhere.

John in Kalifornia

Curious, what are you checking w/ "battery neg to starter body"
I doubt you'll find a voltage drop there. In fact you better not find any voltage there at all.

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Rich
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John in Kalifornia
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #26 - 08/07/12 at 18:42:38
 
Isn't there a cable betwixt the 2?

John in Kalifornia
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mmg123
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #27 - 08/10/12 at 00:50:14
 
The only thing that gets hot when trying to start is the voltage regulator sat on the top of rear fender ??? Could this be the problem guys
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #28 - 08/10/12 at 04:49:36
 
Easy way to find out - completely disconnect the regulator.  You  don't have to remove it. Make sure the battery is charged, or use your jumpers, and see if the motorcycle starts normally. If the regulator is defective it could also be the cause of the battery discharging.
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mmg123
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Re: Very bad cranking
Reply #29 - 08/10/12 at 06:49:14
 
Ok guys temper is going i am going to beat it to liquid metal I have a mutimeter set it for volt reading at 20 i am not sure how to use it Further more i tried the bridge the screwdriver on starter solinoid made no difference in cranking speed now the solinoid wont do nothing just clicks tried screwdriver again nothing luckely i have a spare put that on thats the same when you bridge it nowt not even contact spark Oh and sorry the rectifier was only hot when it runs
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