WD wrote on 05/03/11 at 06:46:40:Those signals usually list from $19.95-49.95 depending on how big a mark-up the shop has.
Hiding the rear fender wires is easy, if you add a rack like that install a "loop" fitting like for a car wiring bundle, on the bolt before the nut goes on. Drill/grommet a hole in the front edge of the fender to run them through also.
Nice job, clean and simple almost always looks good.
Hey HD;
You are right on target. the signals were pretty cheap, much cheaper than the ones like that I bought about 4 yrs before for a Yamaha project.
I went with a rack rather than reshaping the fender. It all came to place when the dealer down the road had one and one only and it was a perfect fit. Carma?
As for the wiring, I used a marine grade 6 conductor wire to keep it clean. I did a combo of the fastener mounted DG's (Wire loop holds) and bonded ZAP bases. I used a grommet to protect the wire loom as it passes through the fender.
I Used a product called Plexus (which is a Methacrylate based Adhesive) to fill the holes, and Bond the Zap bases. There was a lot of holes to fill (fwd and rear fenders), not only from all the stock lights and backrest trim, but the original owner drilled holes to mount many custom lights.
I relocated the Regulator/Rectifier to the tool box location. Speaking of which for those of you who have done that, did you need to create any ventilation in that space to help cool the Rectifier/Regulator?
I really wanted to lose the stock air filter too and relocate a smaller battery somewhere, but at some point I need to focus on my next project and start enjoying this fun little bike I've named Bobby Onelung.
Pages: 
