ordered a 135mm and 140mm honda bolts and a new washer/gasket for the bolt from cheapcycleparts.com - will advise how this goes once the parts get here.

hoping the 140 will work....once i get the 130 out i am going to find out how deep the hole is and maybe able to determine if a +140 will work if so i will order a 145......kind of doubt there would be that much extra threads  to work with though...if anyone else has skinned this cat a different way please let me know.

I believe I stripped out the same one. At the time I didn't know about extra threads in the bottom. I'm about 6000 miles away from my bike so working off memory here.
I didn't want to pull the head and jug off to try and helicoil it. I took a real short bolt and JB Welded it to cover the hole at the top since that one is an oil passage. Then I drilled a hole through two cooling fins, one on the head cover and one on the head and threw a nut and bolt on it to seal the top cover. No leaks...
Not the most cosmetic repair, but after the first couple of months even I didn't notice it. If I ever have a reason to pull the engine apart that far I can still fix it and just pop the short bolt out of the top and fill the holes in the cooling fin like it never happened.

Which ever way you go, good luck!!

-Gunner

I have run into the same problem (stripped L130 Bolt) putting my project savage back together. I didn't see anything further on researching this old thread. Any luck with replacing it with a 140 bolt?

Okay, so I'm not alone with this problem.

I was putting the head cover back in place temporarily. I did everything finger tight, then used the wrench to turn the bolts about 1/8 of a turn, just to snug them a little.  That bolt gave way at about 1/16 of a turn. Aw man!

Hmmmmm, I wonder if there's a non-metric bolt that's a skosh thicker. I suck at converting between fractions of an inch and millimeters.

Here's something that might work. Clean the threads real well on the bolt and wrap one layer of thin teflon tape around the bolt working the teflon tape into the threads as far in as you can get it. You will need to cover the entire blt with the teflon tape to protect it from the J B Weld. Spray out the stripped bolt hole with carb cleaner and letdry, getting the hole as clean as possible. Mix up some JB weld and slop it into the stripped bolt hole or cover the bolt with it. Jam the bolt covered with the teflon tape into the hole and gently twist it in. The teflon tape will prevent the epoxy from glueing the bolt into the hole. Let the J B  weld set up hard and then unscrew the bolt and pull out the tape. If the teflon tape does it's job you will have new JB weld threads cast into the bolt hole. I don't know how much torque the repair would take but I've had success using this on real pain in the butt repairs. Just make sure you screw the bolt down as far as it can go so you won't fill the bottom of the bolt hole with epoxy and loose whatever good threads are left.