There is such thing as a M7 bolt. It's just hard to find. Standard threads are more coarse then metric. In this case I would try the 1/4" bolt method, but either use a tap that can reach that far, or use the bolt and modify it like a tap. I bet this works if you do it right. It's not elegant, but will do the job. I consider the helicoil method more professional, but harder to accomplish. The problem is the depth of the hole. Helicoiling that deep is difficult.

That would work too. But the problem with all those solutions is to get a tap down deep in that hole. I'm not sure if they make taps that long. An extension would be difficult also, since it would have to be really thin walled to fit in the hole. Even if you find a tap that long, it will be extremely fragile, since usually the hole thing is hardened, and boy if that breaks off half way down the hole, you gonna have a lot more trouble. A modified bolt is softer and flexes more. It won't break off as easy. A tap that long, with a thin hardened shaft shears off really easy. That is one stupid design with thin bolts that long, screwed into aluminum, and frequently scheduled to be removed and assembled again.

Both my 125 and 130 were stripped on the bike I'm working on. I tried most of the fixes suggested here to try and avoid pulling the head off. After it became apparent that I was beating a dead horse I pulled the head off and bought a 6mm X 1 helicoil kit on amazon for 27 bucks.

I didn't even have to drill out the 2 holes since the block was so soft. Just used some grease on the tap so that the chips would stick to it as I tapped both of them out. Thought about putting 2 stacked helicoils in but opted for just the one.

Of course, my engine was out so it made it somewhat easier except for having to pull the cam and the associated stuff. Anyway, I've yet to button everything back up since I ordered a gasket kit for it. Once you pull the head the advice I've got from here is to replace that head gasket so that's what I'm doing...
Once everything is back in place I'm pretty sure those heli's will hold. I tested them w/o the cover on and they were able to torque above spec and then I backed them out no problem...

Thought about it but this is the bike I'm fixing up to sell. I know the coils are pretty cheap but really want to just get her running. Besides ,if I do the others I may botch one and then I'd be kicking myself for going overboard...

This bike is just to see if I can get in there and fix some problems. So far I'm having fun and not too worried about being perfect but I do want it to be in decent shape for whoever buys it.

If/When I pull the jug on my good bike maybe I'll use them for that.
I was thinking that after I sell it I'd use the profit to possibly mod out my primary bike...maybe new cam, bore and piston???? Or just use the dough to bob it??? Or pay bills...but that's not much fun...

verslagen1 wrote on 01/02/11 at 17:43:21:

I've got a new 130 bolt on the way. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't want to tear this thing down again!

How difficult will it be to access this bolt once I get the engine back in the bike?

There's only one (ok 2 for those of you that need the captive bolt for the glory covers) that can't be replaced once the engine is in place, the one dead center of the head cover.  Your's is on the perimeter.  easy to change out.  don't forget the sealing washer.