I feel for ya. If I had the tools, I'd ship 'em to ya for nothing...

But to address your concern about the trans... I would have to say no, I doubt you overstressed anything by torquing the clutch that way.

hmm, i certainly don't have the tools, but i know that places like auto zone or avance auto parts will kinda lend you many tools for free. you basically pay the cost of the tool to take it out for X many days, then bring it back and they give you the whole deposit back. this is not the same as buying a tool and returning it. i did this with stud extractors and rounded bolt removers. i couldn't find anything on the website, but it might be worth going to a store and asking.

No, we didn't pull the clutch basket off the spline. Just slid the old clutch plates out of the basket and slid the new stack in.

Also, as soon as the clutch cover came off, we stuffed the two 'rabbit holes' with clean rags. So, Alice is not down there.

The replaced clutch worked great for ~400 miles (BTW the Barnett clutch is better than the OEM). The problem now is not the clutch. We pulled it -- it looks good.

What's happening now is that we can apparently shift to any gear with the clutch disengaged and the motor running, but as the clutch is just being engaged there is a nasty, loud, metallic grinding sound.

As soon as the bike was back in the garage (AAA wrecker) we removed the clutch cover, put a socket/breaker bar on the clutch nut and rotated it (ie. turned the transmission countershaft). The belt drive sprocket started to rotate and then slipped (ie. the transmission drive shaft did not turn a corresponding amount). Basically, no transmission gear is fully engaging.

I found a flywheel puller on Amazon.com. I suppose I don't really need a clutch center holder.

I also lined up a back-up mechanic. The kid and I are going to try to access the transmission on our own (by removing the engine, pulling the jug and splitting the crankcase). If we get to a roadblock, then we'll deliver the engine to the mechanic who said he could do the work for $300 labor.

Of course, at this point, I tempted to sell the bike to whomever would buy it (probably only a salvage yard) and start over again. There's a 2005 S40 on Craigslist nearby with 1000 miles for $2500. But that would be too easy, I suppose ....