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Has anyone tried this? (Read 2389 times)
Digger
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #15 - 03/08/10 at 19:07:00
 
I've not done it myself, but folks talk of cleaning really tiny jets (like pilot jets) using bits of copper wire culled from a stranded conductor.
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
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earlytimz
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Re: Has anyone tried this? (((((decel valve)))))
Reply #16 - 05/30/10 at 14:48:18
 
Well I know this is a somewhat dated thread, but I wanted to share my experience with the decel valve. -Just in case it could help someone searching later...
I was getting a bad stumble after closing the throttle. I've heard someone else describe this perfectly somewhere... Basically, the engine would rev up without a problem, but when I closed the throttle it would stumble down below the idle speed and sometimes even die. If it didn't die, it would soon catch back up to idle speed and be fine. I was also experiencing some erratic idle after a good hard run, then sitting at a light type of scenario. It seemed once the engine was all hot and bothered, she'd have trouble breathing... At first I didn't think the problems were related, but they were. Also was getting decel backfires. You know, the Grrrrr, grumble grumble, POW, grrrrrrr, POW POW.... type of decel pops... (you should hear me do it in person!!)
I read some about the decel valve & decided it was worth a shot. It's easy to get to & remove. All I did was remove it, shot a good bit of Brakleen into the orifices, both the carb side & cap side, hit 'em with compressed air, cleaned & inspected the diaphram, & reassembled. My idle issues are gone!! I still have the decel POW, but not as bad. I honestly think that's a muffler to headerpipe leak, which will get attention soon... Maybe...
The moral of the story: DO NOT OVERLOOK THE DECEL VALVE
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LANCER
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #17 - 05/31/10 at 04:22:01
 
Digger wrote on 03/07/10 at 20:11:18:
LANCER wrote on 03/07/10 at 17:21:23:
....If you are one of those who do their own carb work then I suggest you invest in a carb tool that is about 8-10 various sized cleaner wires.  The set is less than $10 and is invaluable when needing to clean out clogged passageways.  The wires have a bit of a rough surface which aides the cleaning process.  It is sort of like a tiny round file....


Lancer,

You mean like one of these:

K&L Carb Cleaner Wire Set?

I've got one but haven't used it yet.  I'm sorta worried it will hog out the jets.



Yes, that is the tool I use.

The wire used in it is stiff enough to push into the small holes without bending which usually happens with ordinary wire culled from "whatever", and I really got tired and frustrated with that so spent the few $$ for the tool.......IT IS WORTH IT !

If you are not heavy handed and just take your time with the carb, test/check for the correct size you need for any given hole/passageway and then work it in/out to break up the carbon build up inside the holes.  Follow up with a good spray of cleaner and compressed air.
That will take care of the clogged passages.
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ralfyguy
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #18 - 05/31/10 at 20:08:59
 
What's the decel valve?
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earlytimz
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #19 - 05/31/10 at 20:55:45
 
Really?
Transient Enrichment Valve (decel valve in redneck terms)
Refer to post #9 by markbacon
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John_D FSO
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #20 - 06/01/10 at 11:38:59
 
LANCER wrote on 05/31/10 at 04:22:01:
Digger wrote on 03/07/10 at 20:11:18:
LANCER wrote on 03/07/10 at 17:21:23:
....If you are one of those who do their own carb work then I suggest you invest in a carb tool that is about 8-10 various sized cleaner wires.  The set is less than $10 and is invaluable when needing to clean out clogged passageways.  The wires have a bit of a rough surface which aides the cleaning process.  It is sort of like a tiny round file....


Lancer,

You mean like one of these:

K&L Carb Cleaner Wire Set?

I've got one but haven't used it yet.  I'm sorta worried it will hog out the jets.



Yes, that is the tool I use.

The wire used in it is stiff enough to push into the small holes without bending which usually happens with ordinary wire culled from "whatever", and I really got tired and frustrated with that so spent the few $$ for the tool.......IT IS WORTH IT !

If you are not heavy handed and just take your time with the carb, test/check for the correct size you need for any given hole/passageway and then work it in/out to break up the carbon build up inside the holes.  Follow up with a good spray of cleaner and compressed air.
That will take care of the clogged passages.

Cool, looks like an oxy/acetylene torch cleaning kit, which would probably work also. Huh
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ratz
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #21 - 06/01/10 at 17:19:19
 
FWIW,I've used a torch tip cleaner set for years on carburetors,then about a year ago I bought a carb set on a whim.I haven't found any difference to speak of,except you can go to anywhere that sells welding supplies and get a torch set.
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Digger
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #22 - 06/19/10 at 20:07:57
 
LANCER wrote on 05/31/10 at 04:22:01:
Digger wrote on 03/07/10 at 20:11:18:
LANCER wrote on 03/07/10 at 17:21:23:
....If you are one of those who do their own carb work then I suggest you invest in a carb tool that is about 8-10 various sized cleaner wires.  The set is less than $10 and is invaluable when needing to clean out clogged passageways.  The wires have a bit of a rough surface which aides the cleaning process.  It is sort of like a tiny round file....


Lancer,

You mean like one of these:

K&L Carb Cleaner Wire Set?

I've got one but haven't used it yet.  I'm sorta worried it will hog out the jets.



Yes, that is the tool I use.

The wire used in it is stiff enough to push into the small holes without bending which usually happens with ordinary wire culled from "whatever", and I really got tired and frustrated with that so spent the few $$ for the tool.......IT IS WORTH IT !

If you are not heavy handed and just take your time with the carb, test/check for the correct size you need for any given hole/passageway and then work it in/out to break up the carbon build up inside the holes.  Follow up with a good spray of cleaner and compressed air.
That will take care of the clogged passages.


Thanks....now that I've read about the technique from the Carb Master, maybe I'll now not be afraid to use that carb jet cleaning tool that's been sitting in my tool drawer for over a year.
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
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Albert Verdugo
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Re: Has anyone tried this? (((((decel valve)))))
Reply #23 - 03/14/15 at 18:20:13
 
earlytimz wrote on 05/30/10 at 14:48:18:
Well I know this is a somewhat dated thread, but I wanted to share my experience with the decel valve. -Just in case it could help someone searching later...
I was getting a bad stumble after closing the throttle. I've heard someone else describe this perfectly somewhere... Basically, the engine would rev up without a problem, but when I closed the throttle it would stumble down below the idle speed and sometimes even die. If it didn't die, it would soon catch back up to idle speed and be fine. I was also experiencing some erratic idle after a good hard run, then sitting at a light type of scenario. It seemed once the engine was all hot and bothered, she'd have trouble breathing... At first I didn't think the problems were related, but they were. Also was getting decel backfires. You know, the Grrrrr, grumble grumble, POW, grrrrrrr, POW POW.... type of decel pops... (you should hear me do it in person!!)
I read some about the decel valve & decided it was worth a shot. It's easy to get to & remove. All I did was remove it, shot a good bit of Brakleen into the orifices, both the carb side & cap side, hit 'em with compressed air, cleaned & inspected the diaphram, & reassembled. My idle issues are gone!! I still have the decel POW, but not as bad. I honestly think that's a muffler to headerpipe leak, which will get attention soon... Maybe...
The moral of the story: DO NOT OVERLOOK THE DECEL VALVE


I had this problem, and change the petcock for the raptor's, My bike now doesn't shut down but decelerates quite a bit, almost to a stop. Maybe I should try your recomendation. Wink
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mechanikhan
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #24 - 03/18/15 at 17:30:20
 
Reposting from Rubber Side Down! / Re: "Thoughts on pops, backfires during decel" on: 07/17/13

I got rid of 95% of the backfiring by changing the spring in the TEV to a shorter spring. The length of the stock spring has two negative effects on the valve's operation.  
Having measured the pocket that the spring resides in, I came to the following conclusions:
1. There was not much room for the diaphram to move or open during the high vacuum present at full throttle, thus limiting the enriching effect the valve is supposed to provide.
2. The stock spring was stronger than necessary and was closing the valve too abruptly during the low vacuum present at deceleration, thus the backfire.

Instead of cutting the stock spring, I chose to find a shorter one. I'm satisfied with the first spring I chose, a #90 spring I bought at Ace Hardware. Listed below are the dimensions of both springs:

                                 Stock         #90
Free length      1.400 in.         0.715 in.
Wire Diameter      0.032 in.         0.035 in.
Outside Diameter       0.483 in.         0.597 in.

My bike is a 2002 model with just under 4000 miles. I installed the #90 spring at around 2800 miles. The bike is stock with one exception: a previous owner drilled out the baffle. The bike is much more pleasant to ride, and I would recommend this modification before I changed anything else.
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Albert Verdugo
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #25 - 03/29/15 at 20:39:23
 
I think I will take your advice!

mechanikhan wrote on 03/18/15 at 17:30:20:
Reposting from Rubber Side Down! / Re: "Thoughts on pops, backfires during decel" on: 07/17/13

I got rid of 95% of the backfiring by changing the spring in the TEV to a shorter spring. The length of the stock spring has two negative effects on the valve's operation.  
Having measured the pocket that the spring resides in, I came to the following conclusions:
1. There was not much room for the diaphram to move or open during the high vacuum present at full throttle, thus limiting the enriching effect the valve is supposed to provide.
2. The stock spring was stronger than necessary and was closing the valve too abruptly during the low vacuum present at deceleration, thus the backfire.

Instead of cutting the stock spring, I chose to find a shorter one. I'm satisfied with the first spring I chose, a #90 spring I bought at Ace Hardware. Listed below are the dimensions of both springs:

                                 Stock         #90
Free length      1.400 in.         0.715 in.
Wire Diameter      0.032 in.         0.035 in.
Outside Diameter       0.483 in.         0.597 in.

My bike is a 2002 model with just under 4000 miles. I installed the #90 spring at around 2800 miles. The bike is stock with one exception: a previous owner drilled out the baffle. The bike is much more pleasant to ride, and I would recommend this modification before I changed anything else.

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Suzukisavvy
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #26 - 03/31/15 at 07:08:03
 
My bike doesnt backfire except when you shut it off and the last charge is thrown into the exaust. always comes with a laugh and a slap on the ass afterwards haha.
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Albert Verdugo
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #27 - 04/17/15 at 16:05:51
 
I just Repacked my Jardine pipe and the backfiring was reduced almost totally

Pipe did not have packing material when I bought it

Now I am very happy!
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Gary_in_NJ
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #28 - 04/17/15 at 18:28:32
 
I must be the odd man out, I happen to like the backfiring. Seems to fit right in with the character of the bike (at least in cafe racer form).
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Albert Verdugo
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Re: Has anyone tried this?
Reply #29 - 05/04/15 at 00:02:08
 
Backfire is cool but ankward sometimes.

By the way, now mi pipe is quieter in idle, 98 dB after and 96 dB before, but it is louder when reving, from 109 dB it when up to 112 dB.

But the sound change in a good way, pleasant to the ears
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