I looked since some Europeans have done it -- you'd buy a custom liner and machine out the aluminum fin block and machine out the cases and you'd go all the way out to hit the studs (means an outside oil line) and after all that you'd maybe get 40-45 hp out of a cammed engine.

For a while, while fighting custom head gaskets and base gaskets and all the related bits and pieces until it comes apart on you.

Or, you can just go out and buy a Sneaky Pete Nitrous kit and bolt on 25 quick and easy hp and trash your engine just about as durn quick for only $220 invested in the nitrous kit, which you could then move somewhere else later after you finished burning up a Savage engine or two.

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I resisted that evil thought though .....  my heart is pure  

Toymaker wrote on 03/28/10 at 04:28:07:



I will check the weight

verslagen1 wrote on 03/28/10 at 10:09:48:


that is not exactly a good thing

My piston was one silly millimeter smaller than the one you are working with and it was 33 grams lighter than the one I took out.
BTW when you compared piston weights did you include the weight of the piston pin?  You must use the new pin with the new piston.  It is signifigantly shorter than the stock one.
If you only have 2 grams difference, you should be okay.
The web thickness of the cylinder sleeve at the bottom should not be less than 2 mm thick. On my engine I ended up with just barely 3mm
With your 97mm piston you are at the hairy edge of limit for how much you can bore the cylinder.  Hope it works better than mine.

Phelonius

This has nothing to do with a Savage, but when I big bored and stroked my 75 ironhead, the pistons that came with the cylinders looked much like yours (exceot mine had shorter skirts-just past the pin to clear the wheels) and I called and questioned it. I was told quite frankly that it reduces the side loading on the pin bushings. Dunno why, but it must work because I never had any excessive side to side play or rod twist using those pistons.
I even got a set for another 75 with a stockish bore (20 over) and noticed that the rods and pin bushings were in better shape than with the OEM style pistons after 58,912 miles. I also noticed a decrease in vibration at higher reves vs stock pistons.

Great choice on oil. Castrol was always my favorite (all the brits I've owned got it) till I couldn't find straight weights anymore. So my sporty's got fed a diet of straight 60wt Valvoline as well as the trans and i noticed right off the bat that the engine ran cooler and quieter. It does cling quite well too-plays havoc with clutches if you happen to get too much in there. When you drain it out it taks a while for it to come off!

Are you knife edging the the wheels?? Maybe an AMAL Mk2 concentric or Smooth Bore??

Lancer, he's referring to reshaping the crankshaft weights. you lighten & reshape the crank to be more aerodynamic ( really hydrodynamic, since it goes thru oil).
I think if you find a good machine shop that understands high performance, you could lighten the crank AND balancer. Then have the whole rotating assembly balanced. It will run smoother & with the lightened rotating weight, rev quicker. Unless you do something stupid, it will last longer too.

I raced an Opel GT for several years with a crank & rods I lightened & polished, then had balanced. It would rev to about 8500 rpm, then the #3 intake valves' weight would cause a problem. Rules didn't allow me to change to a lighter valve material, but a man in Connecticut  was turning 10 grand with his.  

BTW, the pistons I used in the Opel were 95mm flat tops. I still have the pistons & have wondered how much different they are from a Savage.

Hours & hours with a die grinder & various 'attachments' to smooth out the block & heads, polished oil returns, rounded over all edges so nothing left with an edge to cut you.
The owner of the machine shop I used would say I didn't leave him a lot to do. By doing my own work & assembling my own engines, I was spending 25% of what my competitors were.