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Grinding sound and fuel issue. (Read 392 times)
BurnPgh
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #30 - 02/05/10 at 19:30:18
 
verslagen1 wrote on 02/05/10 at 18:45:37:
Verslavy is in the marketplace, stickied on top.

Trust me, it's the vac line.

You don't need to remove the head to replace the chain.  But not a bad idea to take a look at it.


True. To replace just the chain you dont need to remove the head but I did the chain and both guides. To do that the head must come off and I would ( and did) replace the guides with the chain. Nows probably a good time to suggest you look through the cam chain library on here.
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verslagen1
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #31 - 02/05/10 at 20:43:53
 
BurnPgh wrote on 02/05/10 at 19:30:18:
True. To replace just the chain you dont need to remove the head but I did the chain and both guides. To do that the head must come off and I would ( and did) replace the guides with the chain. Nows probably a good time to suggest you look through the cam chain library on here.

Yep I forgot, I didn't replace the front guide which is captured by the head.  But the rear isn't, and I replaced that one only.
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Framtid001
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #32 - 02/11/10 at 00:14:12
 
What parts can I replace WITHOUT removing the engine? Can someone in explain basically how i'm going to have to go about replacing the cam shaft tensioner/chain?

I have the clymer manual but it's really just confusing me a lot. can I just remove the muffler and replace the camshaft assembly? Do I need to replace the chain as well? can I even replace the chain without taking the engine out since it's located in the head of the engine?
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serenity3743
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #33 - 02/11/10 at 08:53:05
 
You do not have to remove the engine to get the head cover/cam assembly off, or to replace only the chain and cam chain adjuster (ADJUSTER is the correct term; TENSIONERS refers to 2 plastic guides inside the head.).  First, drain the oil.  Then remove the RH footpeg/rear brake assembly, followed by the exhaust header/muffler assembly.  Then remove the clutch cover.  You should have at minimum the following replacement parts:  exhaust header gasket, oil filter and oil, new clutch cover gasket, new cam chain, new cam chain adjuster (verslavy recommended), gasket sealant (for mating head cover/cam assembly back onto the head).  Sockets/wrenches are all metric, ranging from 8mm on the clutch cover, up to 17mm on the footpeg assembly.

Where are you located geographically?  There might be one or more members who are close enough to give on-site advice or assistance.  Hope this helps.
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Oldfeller--FSO
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #34 - 02/11/10 at 10:46:35
 

Here is the complete discussion and Tech Guide on ripping down that side of the engine with everything still sitting on the bike.  

This is within any person's mechanical skill to do, you can do this with metric hand tools, no special tools are needed.  YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE A SIDE COVER GASKET ON HAND BEFORE YOU START.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256079122



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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #35 - 02/12/10 at 05:17:23
 
Easiest, most certain to succeed method for keeping up with the side cover bolts is draw the cover, poke holes in it & poke each bolt into a slot on the drawing.
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serenity3743
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Re: Grinding sound and fuel issue.
Reply #36 - 02/12/10 at 07:52:01
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 02/12/10 at 05:17:23:
Easiest, most certain to succeed method for keeping up with the side cover bolts is draw the cover, poke holes in it & poke each bolt into a slot on the drawing.

Yep, that's what I did.
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2000 LS650P Suzuki windshield, luggage rack, saddle bag racks, k & n air filter, Dyna muffler,2/3 white spacer, do-it-myself seat. Love to ride!
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