thumps
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Less Is More
Posts: 17
Seattle, WA
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Okay. So I replaced my clutch disks, clutch plates, and the springs with the Barnett's heavy duty clutch kit that is found on eBay. The seller has quite a few Suzuki Savage items (Niche Cycle Supply) and their prices are fair.
Here's what I did, and here's what happened:
1. I soaked the new clutch disks in oil for two days.
2. Took off the clutch cover as directed by the Clymer manual.
3. Stuffed paper towels into the "rabbit holes" at the bottom of the case, so that nothing can accidentally fall into them.
4. Removed the old clutch cover gasket, inspected it and made sure to put the two alignment dowels back into the case (as they tend to come off with the gasket).
5. I removed the old push pin, and measured it/compared it to the three I ordered from Suzuki...as it turns out, my bike came with the middle sized one of the three that are offered (44.5, 45.5, 46.5). My size is 45.5mm, I believe.
6. I put the bike in gear and reattached the foot brake (so that I can press down on the brake along with it being in gear to lock up the engine and rear wheel for hub-nut removal...read the rest though).
7. I removed the four clutch spring bolts, making sure to use a criss-cross loosening method.
8. This is where things got a little weird: THE ENTIRE REASON I BELIEVED THAT I NEEDED A NEW CLUTCH, WAS BECAUSE I COULDN'T GET IT TO STOP SLIPPING...NO MATTER WHERE I HAD THE CABLE ADJUSTED. So, with the springs, and there hold-down plate removed, I went to flatten the clutch hub lock washer, and noticed that there was movement...meaning; I could move the lock washer back and forth, which means: THE HUB NUT WAS LOOSE!!! And that of course is probably why my clutch was slipping, I think.
9. Since the hub nut was loose, and I already was half-way into the clutch replacement procedure, I went ahead flattened out the lock washer then took the nut the rest of the way off.
10. Next I removed the clutch disks, plates and pressure plate, leaving everything from the outer thrust washer back, on the transmission shaft...NOTE: Both the factory service manual, the Clymer manual, and a thread or two on this site, say to remove the entire clutch basket, to replace the disks and plates...however, as noted in a few warning threads about clutch removal, when the entire clutch basket is removed, the oil pump drive gear and it's retention pin fall off in one's hand if removed as an entire unit.
11. To avoid having to mess with the oil pump drive gear, it's retention pin, the shaft spacer and the inner most thrust washer, I left the clutch basket outer housing on the shaft, just removing the pressure plate, the disks, and the plates, as stated before. I believe this to be the better method for servicing/replacing the clutch components.
12. The only thing that did come off without me telling it to was the outer most thrust washer, so I wiped it off and immediately placed it back on the shaft, where it had fallen from.
13. Once I had the clutch hub components in my hand, I carefully walked them over to my work bench and placed them down on top of it making sure to keep all of the parts squeezed together.
14. Next I took each of my old disks and old plates off one at a time and set them to the side, making sure to carefully stack each one on top of the other as they were when in the clutch hub. Once they were all out, I flipped the stack over to observe what was what and how they were put together when in the hub.
15. I then proceeded to restack the new oil-drenched disks and plates back onto the clutch hub in the order illustrated by the Clymer and factory service books. As I stacked the parts together, I made sure to keep them all aligned with one another...both the disks with there "tangs" and the plates with there "teeth".
16. Once I was confident the hub was identically stacked like the old stack I had just removed, I picked the entire hub up (with pressure plate) and walked it over to the bike.
17. I then slid the stack onto the transmission shaft making sure to keep the plate "teeth" aligned with their inner grooves and the disk "tangs" aligned with their outer slots on the basket housing.
18. Once everything slid into place, I reattached the lock washer and the 32mm hub nut.
19. I torqued the 32mm hub nut to about 50 lb.ft, bent one side of the lock washer onto the nut, reattached the springs (new ones) yadda, yadda, yadda...basically everything in reverse...AND THEN.
20. I put the new 45.5mm push pin in, the cover back on with new gasket, buttoned everything up..filled her with oil, started it and adjusted the clutch to where I like it.
21. I took the bike out for a ride and it no longer slips, in fact it grabs so well that it almost feels like I could pull a wheelie!!
22. The clutch (so far) seems to be working correctly.
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