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Painting tins - Day 2 (Read 354 times)
EJID
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Painting tins - Day 2
07/26/09 at 22:50:04
 
Well, the wife is probably none too happy with me for spending the majority of the weekend on this, but it paid off. I was able to get all the tins removed, stripped, sanded, primed, painted and reinstalled. I was even able to add back the items that were never on the bike since I've had it (Sissy bar, Brake Light, License Mount). I think it turned out pretty well, it was a base coat of dark blue glossy & flat black accents.

Tell me what you think...

Primed:


Base Coat:


Front Fender complete:


Re-Assembled:





Off the stand and ready to ride  Grin





Sorry for the cell phone pics, but that's all I had handy when I got done @ 11pm Sunday night. Looking forward to finally getting to ride it this week!!!

And if you don't remember, here's what she looked like when I started...
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05 S40 15" Memphis Slim, FXDWG Bars, Moved Rear Signals, Saddlebags, Fork Bag, Mini-Tach, Raptor, Cone Filter, Fishtail Muffler, Mix Screw Out 2.5 Turns, 4" Fwd Controls, 147.5 Main/55 Pilot @ 4500
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PerrydaSavage
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #1 - 07/27/09 at 02:10:43
 
Great job! love the 2-tone!
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #2 - 07/27/09 at 02:14:11
 
I'm digging the 2-tone!!!
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EJID
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #3 - 07/27/09 at 06:51:01
 
Thanks, I "borrowed" the two-tone idea from another member, kevinphan, but used a difference color variation. I really like how the flat black contrasts with the glossy blue. I will try to get some better pics with a real camera now that she's "done" being updated for a while.  Smiley
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05 S40 15" Memphis Slim, FXDWG Bars, Moved Rear Signals, Saddlebags, Fork Bag, Mini-Tach, Raptor, Cone Filter, Fishtail Muffler, Mix Screw Out 2.5 Turns, 4" Fwd Controls, 147.5 Main/55 Pilot @ 4500
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #4 - 07/27/09 at 07:26:34
 
very nice! it looks really good! if u can't find shocks for the back, maybe put springs under the seat! i love that and can't wait til i yank off the rear seat and do it!

but what a difference man! and your wife will be happy now that people won't think you're a murderer with the spider bike! lol
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'95 bobber rat...i guess it's a "bat bike" haha flat black mostly, bare metal tank, header wrap, always a work in progress !
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #5 - 07/27/09 at 07:47:32
 
Well done!   Are you able to wax the flat black parts without them going pasty-white, or will you protect them with that '303 UV blocker' or something?
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EJID
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #6 - 07/27/09 at 09:04:23
 
Boule’tard wrote on 07/27/09 at 07:47:32:
Well done!   Are you able to wax the flat black parts without them going pasty-white, or will you protect them with that '303 UV blocker' or something?


Good question, I hadn't thought about it yet.  Shocked I'm gonna let it "bake" in the sun for the next week of so to make sure the paint is fully cured before I go putting anything on it. If anyone has any suggestions though for protecting the paint, please let me know.
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05 S40 15" Memphis Slim, FXDWG Bars, Moved Rear Signals, Saddlebags, Fork Bag, Mini-Tach, Raptor, Cone Filter, Fishtail Muffler, Mix Screw Out 2.5 Turns, 4" Fwd Controls, 147.5 Main/55 Pilot @ 4500
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odvelasc
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #7 - 07/27/09 at 10:28:47
 
EJID wrote on 07/27/09 at 09:04:23:
Boule’tard wrote on 07/27/09 at 07:47:32:
Well done!   Are you able to wax the flat black parts without them going pasty-white, or will you protect them with that '303 UV blocker' or something?


Good question, I hadn't thought about it yet.  Shocked I'm gonna let it "bake" in the sun for the next week of so to make sure the paint is fully cured before I go putting anything on it. If anyone has any suggestions though for protecting the paint, please let me know.



Um you should really clearcoat before ever remounting the parts. Also, the paint and clearoat should have dried for atleast 2 days before buffing down the clear coat. Sometimes after buffing a 3rd coat may be needed. It looks awesome. How did you do the two tone? I plan on repainting my bike yet again at the end of august.
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #8 - 07/27/09 at 10:57:31
 
Very nice, I love the way it turned out.
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EJID
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #9 - 07/27/09 at 11:14:24
 
odvelasc wrote on 07/27/09 at 10:28:47:
EJID wrote on 07/27/09 at 09:04:23:
Boule’tard wrote on 07/27/09 at 07:47:32:
Well done!   Are you able to wax the flat black parts without them going pasty-white, or will you protect them with that '303 UV blocker' or something?


Good question, I hadn't thought about it yet.  Shocked I'm gonna let it "bake" in the sun for the next week of so to make sure the paint is fully cured before I go putting anything on it. If anyone has any suggestions though for protecting the paint, please let me know.



Um you should really clearcoat before ever remounting the parts. Also, the paint and clearoat should have dried for atleast 2 days before buffing down the clear coat. Sometimes after buffing a 3rd coat may be needed. It looks awesome. How did you do the two tone? I plan on repainting my bike yet again at the end of august.


At first I tried to clear coat the front fender with a matte finish clear coat, but it turned the black a real cloudy white and didn't help the blue either...  Sad I tried to buff it back out to no avail, so I had to resand, and repaint that fender. I'm just glad I didn't shoot all of it with that clear. If I was using a high gloss on everything, I don't think I would have had any problems with the clear coat, but with the flat, I think there are issues  Embarrassed
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05 S40 15" Memphis Slim, FXDWG Bars, Moved Rear Signals, Saddlebags, Fork Bag, Mini-Tach, Raptor, Cone Filter, Fishtail Muffler, Mix Screw Out 2.5 Turns, 4" Fwd Controls, 147.5 Main/55 Pilot @ 4500
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #10 - 07/27/09 at 11:14:45
 
EJID wrote on 07/27/09 at 09:04:23:
Good question, I hadn't thought about it yet.  Shocked I'm gonna let it "bake" in the sun for the next week of so to make sure the paint is fully cured before I go putting anything on it. If anyone has any suggestions though for protecting the paint, please let me know.


In general it is a good idea to let paint cure for two weeks before waxing, if you want to go that route.  Clear coating isn't a bad idea if you don't mind losing much of the "flatness" of your black areas.  

I recently painted a plastic dirt bike part flat black, and wanted to protect it without clearcoat (which I figured would chip) or pasty-white wax.  So I just sprayed it with the 303 stuff. I think I got it from wholesalemarine or some other boating outfit.  So far it has held up well, despite all the thumpin' vibration.  The part buzzed like crazy before I found a way to dampen it.. if I had to do it over again I'd just spray it with truck bed liner.
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odvelasc
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #11 - 07/27/09 at 17:58:11
 
EJID wrote on 07/27/09 at 11:14:24:
odvelasc wrote on 07/27/09 at 10:28:47:
EJID wrote on 07/27/09 at 09:04:23:
Boule’tard wrote on 07/27/09 at 07:47:32:
Well done!   Are you able to wax the flat black parts without them going pasty-white, or will you protect them with that '303 UV blocker' or something?


Good question, I hadn't thought about it yet.  Shocked I'm gonna let it "bake" in the sun for the next week of so to make sure the paint is fully cured before I go putting anything on it. If anyone has any suggestions though for protecting the paint, please let me know.



Um you should really clearcoat before ever remounting the parts. Also, the paint and clearoat should have dried for atleast 2 days before buffing down the clear coat. Sometimes after buffing a 3rd coat may be needed. It looks awesome. How did you do the two tone? I plan on repainting my bike yet again at the end of august.


At first I tried to clear coat the front fender with a matte finish clear coat, but it turned the black a real cloudy white and didn't help the blue either...  Sad I tried to buff it back out to no avail, so I had to resand, and repaint that fender. I'm just glad I didn't shoot all of it with that clear. If I was using a high gloss on everything, I don't think I would have had any problems with the clear coat, but with the flat, I think there are issues  Embarrassed


Ya I went with a glossy clear. Got it from an auto paint store. Gotta make sure it is the correct clear coat as well. Its gotta be the clearcoat that can hold up against gas spilling on it. How did you paint around the gas gap. I think my paint came up to high on the rim of where you pour the gas because its starting to bubble, so I now have electrical tape around it. My next paint job is gonna be paint and clear coat poured and premixed into rattle cans for me. I may go for a matte color. So, what did you use to cover the blue in order to do the black two tone on top?
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #12 - 07/27/09 at 18:19:15
 
from a sow's ear,.. to a silk purse....

Very nice!.... Wink
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Ludicrous Speed !... ... Huh...
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #13 - 07/27/09 at 19:14:10
 
Nice ride.  I may need some tips on getting the dings out.
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EJID
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Re: Painting tins - Day 2
Reply #14 - 07/28/09 at 06:43:14
 
Thanks for all the comments, I'm just glad I finally get to ride it  Grin

odvelasc: I sprayed all the tins blue and let them cure in the sun for about 5 hours, rotating them on a regular basis so that the whole thing got nice and toasty.  Cheesy I brought them back in the house and let them cool back down before I masked of the areas that I wanted to keep blue with regular blue painter's tape (in hindsight, it would have been much easier to make the curves and such with a cheap roll of pinstriping, but I took my time and got them just how I wanted to). After establishing the "lines" of where I wanted to keep the blue, I covered the rest with the blue tape and sprayed on the black.
I did a few coats of the black in less than an hour and about 30 min later, I carefully peeled off the tape (seems the flat dries to the touch within about 10 min with such light coats). Then I let everything bake in the sun for another few hours.
Around the gas cap you can see in the blue picture of the tank that I put several strips of tape going from inside the tank to just outside making a small cone. I hope I don't have any issues with the paint bubbling around the cap, but we shall see  Embarrassed now you've got me worried about something else that I didn't predict.
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05 S40 15" Memphis Slim, FXDWG Bars, Moved Rear Signals, Saddlebags, Fork Bag, Mini-Tach, Raptor, Cone Filter, Fishtail Muffler, Mix Screw Out 2.5 Turns, 4" Fwd Controls, 147.5 Main/55 Pilot @ 4500
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