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Oil Type (Read 159 times)
Savage = HD eater
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Oil Type
07/20/07 at 20:38:45
 
I'm adding oil to my 98 Savage and don't remember what type I had put in at the last oil change.  I'm going with the thought that I'll be safe with 10W-40.  Do I need it to be "motorcycle" 10W-40?  Or is regular 10W-40 good enough?
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When I'm on the VTX, I'm a smooth operator but when I ride the Savage, I'm back to the basics!!! (and loving it!)
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Savage_Rob
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #1 - 07/20/07 at 20:44:39
 
I personally prefer 15w50 or 20w50 because of the hot climate in TX but 10w40 is in the specs.  The specifications are in your owner's manual.  I use motorcycle specific oil but you can use others as long as they meet the specs in the manual.  Definitely stay away from anything with friction modifiers or anti-wear additives if it's not motorcycle specific and says it's safe for wet clutch applications.  This seems already destined to be a rehash of several existing threads on "which oil do I/you use?" but there you go.  I am currently using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 pure synthetic and plan to stick with pure synthetics similar to it.
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Savage = HD eater
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #2 - 07/20/07 at 20:46:19
 
I've got a suzuki 4-cycle motorcycle engine oil (SP-4A) 10W-40.  I'm assuming this is okay??
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When I'm on the VTX, I'm a smooth operator but when I ride the Savage, I'm back to the basics!!! (and loving it!)
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smokey02
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #3 - 07/20/07 at 20:49:18
 
Look for oil in the 'SEARCH' function

I use 20w50 in so calif, almost never freezes here, but can be over 100 deg. in the summer.
Motorcycle specific SF or SG

Others use Synthetics

But beware of any oil that has "friction modifiers" they can cause your clutch to slip.

My 2 cents would be to change oil and filter to a known good type, buy a gallon so you have some extra to top it off later.

Mixing different brands might not be a good idea.

This last time I bought 4 gallons and 4 filters and got free shipping from temeculamotorsports.com.
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luxup
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #4 - 07/20/07 at 23:33:56
 
The Suzuki 10w 40 motorcycle oil is what I used for my first oil change 2 days ago.  I got the oil right from the dealership.
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #5 - 07/21/07 at 04:21:25
 
At next change I'll be using Motul 300 V (motorcycle specific)in 15w50 grade. This stuff is £10.80 per litre but comes highly recomended.

Clive W  Cheesy
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Savage_Rob
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #6 - 07/21/07 at 08:31:36
 
klx650sm2002 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:
...£10.80 per litre...

Ouch!
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skrapiron -FSO
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #7 - 07/21/07 at 09:27:04
 
Our bikes have a 'wet-clutch' which means that the clutch is bathed in the same lubricant that the engine is.

The problem with using automotive grade oils is the types and volumes of friction modifiers in the additive package.  These additives can cause wet-clutches to slip, glaze and fail.

Motorcycle grade oil provides nearly the same lubricity as automotive grade oils, but it does so with a different additive package.  It is formulated to work with the wet-clutch.

When it comes to the base oil, it really doesn't matter what you choose.  Synthetic or natural oils are only as good as their detergents and additive packages.

That said, I prefer a semi-synthetic motorcycle oil for use in my bikes.
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justin_o_guy
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #8 - 07/21/07 at 10:41:06
 
I'm running Rotella T 15-40, just less than $9.00 a gallon at walmart. I would consider going back to motorcycle specific oils if I could find one that I was convinced was worth the cost. I may prove than ANY are worth the cost if this oil fails to provide sufficient protection for the things internals. Seems to me it is an internal combustion engine, built to fairly loose tolerances & without any exotic materials. IE Its not a Formula 1 engine, Nor a AA fueler. Its just a big fat thumper running less than 6k RPM, I dont see the need to treat it like it is something strange & mysterious & in need of some kind of religious sacrifice made to keep it alive. I may be disappointed in a few thousand miles & may be singing a different tune, but for now, I will treat it like a lawnmower motor, keep the air as clean as I can going in & keep enough oil in it & change it at 3,000 miles.
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #9 - 07/21/07 at 11:45:46
 
justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:
...
Seems to me it is an internal combustion engine, built to fairly loose tolerances & without any exotic materials. IE Its not a Formula 1 engine, Nor a AA fueler. Its just a big fat thumper running less than 6k RPM, I dont see the need to treat it like it is something strange & mysterious & in need of some kind of religious sacrifice made to keep it alive...


I agree with your logic, but I disagree with your conclussion because you forgot to factor in the heat created by this little thumper.

Normal oils break down in extreme heat and I don't believe that there is a hotter running street engine than the savage engine when it is running at highway speeds.   With that in mind I only use synthetic oils like AMSOIL or MOBIL1 for motorcycles.  I know its just a  big fat thumper but that exhaust pipe is hot enough to burn JBWeld clean off and it's supposed to be good up to 500 degrees f., who knows how hot that oil is getting?
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #10 - 07/21/07 at 13:42:33
 
Agreed.  I used Rotella until I felt the engine was sufficiently broke in.  It coked all over the fins from the dreaded plug leak!  I switched to Amsoil 10-40 and amazingly it cleaned the coking away.  I'm not a believer in bathing my bike since I never do it... Embarrassed
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justin_o_guy
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #11 - 07/21/07 at 16:19:49
 
WELLL< Crumm, I was. thats WAS having a blissful moment. You know, the ol' ignorance is bliss thing. I really dont want to go to that expense. Maybe I should. I just dunno. Thanks for the heads up. I dont know what I'll do about it yet tho. Maybe Reelthing will find time to poke his head in on this. I know he has a particular choice but cant remember what it is. And, he knows what he's talkin about. Seems that guy has been extra busy since the rains.
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #12 - 07/21/07 at 18:03:12
 
I read the reports, and now I'm wondering... How long does it take for dino juice to break down?

One of the mobil1 tests they did was in a car, ran it 12k? and the oil was just beginning to break down.  I put dino juice in my car and the mfg recommended interval is 6k.  Of course all the oil change places recommend every 3k, why wouldn't they?

We put oil (syn or natural) in our bikes and change it somewhere between 1 and 3k.  Most likely cause they run hotter.

So, how long does it take for dino juice to break down?

Anybody seen any tests for dino juice?   Grin
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Re: Oil Type
Reply #13 - 07/21/07 at 21:33:33
 
Castrol GTX or Rotella, in 15W40 or 20W50. Savage and Intruder. No problems with clutch. Castrol Syntech blend 10W30 in the Intruder, no problem. Can't get thin synthetics to stay in the Savage, doesn't leak that bad, doesn't seem to be burning oil, but within 24-36 hours after a synthetic fill, the crankcase is empty.

I flog my bikes and they survive with dino juice, car or heavy truck spec.
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