Ok I admit I laid my 2005 S 40 down. I am still a beginner rider. But at least I was not hurt except my pride. After waiting a week for a new rh tail light, the only other thing that got broken, it finally arrived today. All excited to get riding again, I proceded in trying to remove, seemed to be a simple operation, the broken rh tail light. What the #$@*& do they put those screws in with? I believe they must be welded or glued. I got the correct size phillips type screw head and could not budge the thing. And even though I had good contact and the correct size, the screw head started to tear apart like cheap pot metal.  

So I went to Sears and purchased a good quality stripped screw remover aI tried tapping it with a hammer and heating it with a soldering iron. And all it did was continue to tear the screw head apart without loosening it abit. Anyone else had this problem? I have not removed my seat yet because the hex head in the rear is also very tight and I do not wish to tear it up. I guess I go to a machine shop and pay more money. I hope the rest of the bike does not turn out to be so cheap.

Ahh... and another person gets educated on the cheap Japanese phillips head screw. I learned this valuable lesson about 1968 with a Honda CL-90.

Having an impact screwdriver is an absolute necessity; and they're cheap. While you're at it, pick up a "dead blow" hammer to whack it with, you won't regret buying either if you intend to keep working on your own bikes. The action of hammering and twisting a screw at the same moment prevents the striping, and loosens them effectively. Unfortunately once you've stripped the head, the proper tool may not help you. But at least next time you'll have the correct tool to prevent stripping in the first place. Using the recommended penetrating lube first still helps.

Don't feel bad....I had the same thing happen on the wifes new "06. I was put'n on the backrest and I assume you're talking about the single phillips on the underside of the turn signal to the fender rail.

Mine started to strip too and I was using a Snap On screw driver. Had to unplug the signal and then take the rail to the vise (padded it up). Ending up using a hack saw to cut a new groove and with better leverage in the vise got the booger out.

I think the reason the seat bolt (at the back) is tight is because they use a locking compound. Using a metric hex with ratchet worked great. If you are removing the seat, don't forget the two additional bolts near the front of the seat on the left and right side.

I use anti sieze in lots of places.

Using a bit of toothpaste on the tip of the screwdriver can help it grab a bit better to avoid stripping but if it's already buggered, it won't likely help.