Following is the list for the parts needed. The sprockets are JT Sprockets items. All you need to order(available from several sources) is the front and rear sprockets for a Suzuki 1980 GS550 with CAST wheel. These sprockets are available in 13- 18 for the front sprocket. The 18 will not have enough clearance but the rest are fine. The rear are available in 38-52 and will all work. You will need to order an extra 13 tooth front sprocket. This will be needed to make a spacer. I cut a 40mm circle out of the 13 tooth, and it fits on the outside of the sprocket to take up the room between the sprocket and the toothed lock washer and the nut that tightens everything down. It is a simple switch. After putting bike in gear(5th) Just remove all the belt covers, and the cover for the front pulley(three 8mm bolts) Place a steel bar(wrapped with tape) through the spokes of rear wheel and on TOP of your swing arm on both sides. A32mm socket is needed to remove nut on the front pulley(lefty loosie). Be sure to flatten the lock washer that is bent over nut first. After that loosen chain adjusters, loosen axle and move rear wheel forward. Pull the rear axle out and the spacers, be sure to remove back brake cable adjuster and barrel. Now you can pull out the bottom shock bolt(pulley side) and swing shock out of the way to remove belt. Remove the pulley off the rear wheel(six 14mm nuts) and replace with sprocket of your tooth choice. Slide the sprocket of your choice on the transmission shaft, slide on the spacer made from the 13 tooth sprocket, the toothed washer and finally the nut. You may need to JUST grind the spacer a very little to allow room for the toothed washer to slide on the tranmission spline. I used a disk sander, and took ONLY enough metal off to let the toothed washer to hang on the splines. After that you just bolt everything back up and figure out the length of your chain. I used a 530 chain of 110 links, and took links out(2) to fit my sprocket combo(17/43) You will NOT be able to run a belt guard(brackets on swing arm will hit chain) in some cases when using an o-ring chain, because it is wider. With a normal chain there is no problem, even down to the 14 tooth on the front. If you do not run a belt/chain guard you will need to put an extra washer on the bottom shock bolt to take up the space of the belt guard. Just take a washer with a large enough hole to fit bolt and cut out one side making it look like a "u". This way you can run gaurd or not and will not have to remove rear wheel to take out the washer. The cost for the whole chain coversion with NEW sprockets from the DEALER was $95. This included a cheap chain, until I find the best ratios for me. Once I find the ratio I like best, I will go with a good o-ring chain that will add to the cost . $70 for sprockets and the price of a good chain is a good deal to be able to DIAL in what you want your Savage to do. I will be posting pics later. HAVE FUN!!! with all the ratios you have to play with. You can now cruise the interstate at lower RPM's or turn your Savage into a street rocket that will pull the front tire off the road all day. It's all up to YOU!!! and the sprockets you choose. Hutch
Following are pics of conversion. This one shows spacer behind the washer and nut.
This shows how close chain runs to belt guard bracket. The smaller 14 tooth sprocket might mean removing bracket.
This shows the sprocket I cut the 40mm OD center out of to make the spacer for behind the washer and nut.
Here is a look down the chain.
This the complete view. Just put covers on, and enjoy!!
Here is a chart showing the difference in RPM at the same speed, comparing stock gearing on left and new gearing on the right.
--stock--------------------------------------new ratio 17/43 ----
50mph@3111---------------------50@2660rpm=450less-----
60mph@3733---------------------60@3193rpm=541less-----
70mph@4355---------------------70@3724rpm=631less-----
80mph@4977---------------------80@4255rpm=722less-----
90mph@5600---------------------90@4788rpm=812less-----
100mph@6222------------------100@5320rpm=900less-----
105mph@6500------------------105@5560rpm=940less-----
Here is another chart for a different ratio.
--stock------------------------------------new ratio17/45--------
50mph@3111--------------------50@2799rpm=312less------
60mph@3733--------------------60@3359rpm=374less------
70mph@4355--------------------70@3919rpm=436less------
80mph@4977--------------------80@4479rpm=518less------
90mph@5600--------------------90@5040rpm=560less------
100mph@6222-----------------100@5600rpm=622less------
105mph@6500-----------------105@5850rpm=650less------
That is just two examples of what you can do by changing gear ratios and how it affects your rpm and mph. Keep in mind that a one tooth change on the REAR sprocket is a 2.5% change in gearing. For every one tooth change on the FRONT sprocket it is a 5-6% change in gearing.
HAVE FUN!!! Hutch
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