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Poor Man's Bike Stand (Read 1447 times)
Savage_Greg
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Poor Man's Bike Stand
12/26/06 at 08:57:09
 
Let me lay it out for you all...

A few months ago, I was faced with a minor dilemma.  I had decided to finally get around to changing the rear brake shoes on my spouse's bike, but I needed a way to raise the bike.  My shoulder wasn't up to any lifting, and I needed a way to steady the bike when I got it raised.

Now, I know about the homemade lever jacks using wood and pipe, but like most home mechanics, I have a floor jack.

I also, used to have a bike jack, but the Savage frame never really fit very well and it always seemed wobbly.  I sold it.

In the past, I've used straps attached to an overhead with a floor jack, but this time it wasn't feasible.  Nothing to hook to...

So I had an idea...and at the time, I thought that it was an original idea worth patenting...until I saw an ad in Motorcycle Classics and did some research.

So, anyway, before I realized that I wasn't going to be rich (I can dream, right?), I built my little bike stand prototype and tested it and photographed it.

All that it took was a good piece of 5/8" board, 2 x 4's, wood screws, 10d nails, and eye-screws.  

Here comes my prototype, in pictures....if you build one and use it with care, it does works great.

On the other hand, if you have lots of money, go here and buy one Smiley

http://www.bikersfriend.com/pages/stand.htm

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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #1 - 12/26/06 at 09:04:10
 
A dog is a good accessory Smiley





Note: You do want to keep the bike perpendicular with the stand because of the steering head angle.



To be safe, I tested it with my bike before I put Julie's on it Shocked

The jack stand is under the swing arm, not the muffler bracket!



(Now, before Sluggo says anything, let me mention that I do know where the rear shoes are located) Smiley



I first raised it to check, then I lowered it to unbolt the front wheel.



Yes, I took off the front wheel JUST to see that it worked Smiley

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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #2 - 12/26/06 at 10:29:34
 
Thanks.

I forgot to mention that the straps don't have to be real tight.  Just snug.  Don't even compress the forks.

Just like it takes very little force to balance a bike by hand, it doesn't take a lot of tension on the straps.
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Fido_the_Cat
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #3 - 12/29/06 at 22:31:26
 
I have everything I need in the shop. With some additional hooks to hang it up out of the way when not in use. I have just the out of the way stop for it.
Great Thinks.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #4 - 12/30/06 at 08:57:48
 
There you go.  It sure beats block and bricks, and most "shade trees" have a floor jack anyway.

If you build one, feel free to make some improvements and then post them here.  This was my first proto, but I think that I might have done a couple other things too it....

...Like making the wheel well in sort of a v-shape to cradle the tire better....

Good luck
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verslagen1
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #5 - 12/30/06 at 10:22:25
 
One improvement I can see is move the eyehook from the end of the 2x4 to the 4" wide side, hook pointing opposite side of the wheel well but still on the end of the 2x4.  That way in case the jack slips and it starts to roll forward, the straps will tighten pulling it back to right.

With the eyehook on the end, it could roll.

Or with an eye towards storage, use hinges to attach the wheel well boards to the cross piece and add a strap accross the wheel well boards to keep them from spreading.  And it'll fold flat for storage.  A little clamping pressure on the tire and your little friend isn't going anywhere without your permission.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #6 - 12/30/06 at 10:52:07
 
If you notice, the straps on the front are very loose.  Hardly any fork compression, and therefore no spring tension.

When I tested it you could push sideways on the bar, but the fork springs would force it back to neutral upright.

As for rolling forward, I had thought of a taller bumper at the front of the tire but I used just what I had on hand.  Anyway, in all the jacking I never felt insecure about it rolling forward.

I put the eye screw in the end, because I wanted to avoid a twisting force on the 2x4.  As well, the screw hole is stonger in line with the grain of the wood.  What if the 2x4 split, too?...that was the thinking behind that location...

Folding and hinging is a good idea.  The high priced stands actually capture the tire and don't need straps anyway...but the stand must not be able to slide on the floor.  The straps create a tripod of sorts.

What sort of stumped me was an easy (remember the topic) Poor Man's Bike Stand that had a more secure fit for any size tire...say 4 to 7 inches.   Using a V Shape is one method, but a fatter tire sits much higher off the floor that way.

Grab the hammers and bring on some pictures Smiley
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justin_o_guy
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #7 - 01/01/07 at 18:59:15
 
Thats cool, as much as I got to see. I waited about 10 minutes & pics still not loaded. Sllooowwww ISP,, Question I have is, how do ya get the rear wheel off the ground? I have a low profile floor jack & your doohickey looks real cool.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #8 - 01/02/07 at 10:57:34
 
justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
Thats cool, as much as I got to see. I waited about 10 minutes & pics still not loaded. Sllooowwww ISP,, Question I have is, how do ya get the rear wheel off the ground? I have a low profile floor jack & your doohickey looks real cool.


The Savage has a real narrow balance point under the engine.  With the front strapped down, I jacked it at the very rear of the engine and put the jack stand under the swingarm.

Don't jack it on the muffler bracket, unless you don't care if you bend it Smiley
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #9 - 02/11/07 at 08:43:37
 
Here's another photo to show how handy this can be...and it only cost a couple bucks to build.

If ya look close you can see that the forks are hardly compressed.  The straps are pretty loose and the bike is very stable.



Here's another one, just goofing around...



And this one shows what I can see under there Tongue

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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #10 - 04/01/07 at 08:07:27
 
Didn't have the lumber at hand, but I did have 12" spikes I use for tent stakes and bits of rope, and of course the standard duece and a quarter floor jack. Not as quick to use as Greg's stand, limited on where it can be done, but quite secure:
[/quote]

Lifting the front is even easier. Just place a brick under the kickstand. Then when you lift under the front of the engine the bike leans into the kickstand and lifts the front wheel. Quicker than Greg's stand, but not as secure:


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« Last Edit: 11/06/10 at 19:14:38 by Paladin. »  
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #11 - 08/24/07 at 05:10:17
 
An update....

Admittedly, the front wheel is kinda light so the Stand is more fussy to use there, but if you need it to raise the front end it works great once you find your strap points at the rear.

I used it yesterday to change Julie's fork oil and since she had my floor jack in the truck with her, I used this old bottle jack.  Very stable.

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Savage_Greg
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Reply #12 - 11/10/07 at 07:29:54
 
dennis wrote:
********* Auto Generated Form Email **********

Subject: Poor mans bike stand,

Comments or Questions: After working with timber all my working life  (now retired) i would feel happier if the eyes that hold the straps to the 4 x 2 were threaded through the timber with a nut and washer on the other side,end grain is not a good fixing in that situation, not a criticism, it's a brill idea, my comment is made with safety in mind, Regards Dennis REOC 10055.

email Address:

Make optional: Royal Enfield Model "G"

Model optional: "G"

This message is auto-generated by your web site when the form is submitted by a site visitor on page "Contact_Me". No need to reply.



Hi Dennis,

Well, you have a good point, but let me explain how this happened.

My background with timber is pretty extensive too, because I've had splinters embedded in my fingers from just about every type of wood that is commonly available at Home Depot...Smiley

As the title of the bike stand suggests, I built the stand when I was really broke.  I had to use what I had on hand.  The tie down "eyes" that I had available were the "screw type", and therefore I felt that running them through (side to side) might actually cause the wood to split.  From my experience, it seemed that running screws with the grain would have less of a splitting effect.  It also seemed that I'd be using more of the wood to hold the screws since the board is only 1 1/2 thick anyway.  I did drill a pilot hole at any rate.

Oh yeah, I also placed the "eyes" in the center on the end of the board.  My reasoning was to prevent the straps from creating an upward twisting torque on the 2 x 4 which might loosen it from the base.

I do admit that if I had had some "eye bolts" with nut and washer that I'd have done it, as you suggest.  The washer would distribute the "forces" over a wider area of wood and the through hole would not have the same splitting effect.  So I agree with your comment.  However, if you decide to build one of these stands, you will also find that you need very little tension on the straps to actually hold the bike vertical.  After all, just think about how much force you exert to keep your Enfield upright when you are sitting on it.  Not much, unless the bike actually begins to tip past the center of gravity.

On a side note, let me mention this.  Both of my "eyes" are bent on my "one and only prototype".  In all my testing, goofing around plus actual work with the stand, the eyes have become bent in a rearward direction, and the wood has not split at all.  Maybe I just got lucky.

One real improvement that I would make to the Poor Man's Bike Stand would be the length of the base.  In hindsight, I'd have made it longer to allow the jack to sit upon the base.  That would have put the balance triangle on the same base area.  As it is now, the weight on the front wheel is the only thing that steadies the stand on the floor.  More downward force from the jack would provide more stability for the front wheel.

Thanks for your comment.  I do appreciate that you took the time to offer your thoughts.  If I ever build another one, I will probably use your suggestion.

Ride safe,
Savage Greg

PS - I think that I will post an edited version of this discussion on the web site.

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Savage_Greg
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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #13 - 12/02/07 at 10:27:19
 
As mentioned above, this is how I would build the next version of the PMBS...

A longer base that allows for the jack (and weight of bike) would provide more stability.  This would prevent the wheel and jack from moving independently while working on the bike.

This would also allow for it's use on some different bikes, where the front half of the bike is lighter...

<For example, I could not use this stand with a Honda 185 because the front of bike (plus PMBS) was actually lighter than the rear half of the bike.  The PMBS actually lifted with the front wheel.>

So just measure and create a base plate that extends past the engine rather than shown before...Like this...

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Re: Poor Man's Bike Stand
Reply #14 - 12/20/07 at 01:40:46
 
My buddy was over the other day while I was working on the site and he noticed the poor man's bike stand. He was all over it. He says "We got to build one." and then there was a long pause "out of metal, with adjustable clamps and a bigger deck....." I just thought to myself have we learned nothing from "Tim the Tool Man'

I love the dog, we have boston's as well, as a matter of fact we just had puppies... The puppies look like little cows. Tongue


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