Max_Morley
Serious Thumper
Offline
LT650 Luxury Touring & sidecar rig
Posts: 1490
Moses Lake. WA
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I've got one of those many piece puzzles now, I bought a Kawasali Mule 1000 Utility vehicle from a dairy that decided not to have it repaired. It came with the parts and fasterners in the little PU box on the back. I use the factory manual lots and am waiting for a couple gaskets to finish the engine install and see if it runs before I do much more. To your question, no the long studs/buts (including the one w/the infamous plug/cap that leaks) that clamp the cylinder between the head and block go under that top cover. For storage and security there is no reason you can't put those 2parts together for now with the fasterners finger tight. I think it is important to only tighten the fasteners when you know you won't forget to go back and fo it later. A factory manual will be a big help (or even a Clymers one) as will this forum as some of us ehave been there. The manual just breaks the process into sections rather than sequential like we would like to have it. The manual is pretty good at bolts size and location, parts diagram may be even more help, when you say stripped, do you mean the threads themselves or the hex head of the bolt or philips head on the screws. For replacement fasterners good hardware stores will have some, some you will have to cut off as they may be an in between length. Cover screws should all project from the cover about the same height from the clamping sureface, the longer ones usually go through the hollow alignment dowels. The head cover has some very special requirements, look in the tech section for the pattern for them. Note that some use copper gaskets as they have oil pressure under them, consider getting new ones of these for a leak proof repair. I've completely redone a couple of Honda singles(70's, 100's, 125's 200's, and 230 down to just parts and fasteners) and it is amazing how much they all look alike inside and how the Savage is similiar, just bigger -lots bigger. Take care, Max
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