This is an old mod post that has had the legal world rotate out from under it in many states. Check your local laws before doing this.From
Cruiser Customizing:
The advertizing blurb claims:
Quote:Think of this - your rear turn signal housings are illuminated only when the turn signal is flashing. These are dead lights the rest of the time.
Our signal kits simply, easily and legally will make those dead housings additional red running and brake lights the rest of the time. On some bikes, it effectively doubles the size of your rear running and brake lights without adding any additional housings. It does not alter the operation of the turn signals and the red light shuts off when the amber signal comes on. Other kits make your signal lights into full time running lights and signals, but in amber - ILLEGAL on any motor vehicle and much more expensive than our kit plus no brake lights!. No dying or replacement of the lens is required either.
This kit was designed to add additional lighting after dusk when it is needed most.
Priority of illumination as follows (first is highest and overrides all others):
1. Turn Signal
2. Brake Light
3. Running Light
The product has been redesigned now and is even easier to install.
Wife gave me one for Christmas.
Has two small rings of LEDS on a pair of circuit boards and a supplied tube of clear silicon glue. The LED rings are glued to the inside of the amber turn signal lenses. Let sit 24 hours after gluing so you don't knock them loose when installing. 10% done.
Two thin pairs of wires get snaked from inside the turn signals, down inside the stems, follow the turn signal wires to under the seat. 75% done. This is the tough part of the job.
Kit is supplied with taps that bite into the stop light lead, the run light lead, and the left and right turn signal leads. The taps take standard 1/4" spade connectors, also supplied. A pair of supplied three wire splice things contain diodes/resistor under shrink tubing to do the electrical magic. The LEDs, being low power draw, get the hot lead from the run/brake leads and the ground lead from the hot lead of the turn signals -- which is ground through the turn signal bulb when off. When hot (turn signal on) the LEDs lose their ground and go dark.
Using the spade connectors means if you get your wires crossed up you can easily switch connections to correct. (a wrong hookup will have the turn signal turning off the wrong side run/brake light.)
End result -- as advertized!
I now have my stock red taillight plus red lights from my amber turn signals giving me a triangle of running lights. Hit the brakes and all three brighten to brake light intensity. The turn signal shuts down the associated run/brake giving a clean pure amber turn signal with the red (bright brake or low intensity run) light returning when the amber goes dark. The other side remains a steady red.
Advantage:
Complete kit, nothing more to buy (not counting tools)
More legal red lights for higher visibility of run/brake lights.
Additional run/brake lights to the single stock lamp -- in case of bulb burnout your rear remains lit.
Normal amber turn signal operation.
Disadvantage:
$50
couple of hours of time
more wires under the seat.
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