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New Rear Tire (Read 42 times)
bentwheel
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #15 - 11/25/05 at 11:06:42
 
Mr 650 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
I was dreaming about a cool sliding block lower shock mount of some type that would allow infinite adjustment over about 1-2” frt to back, then chrome the whole mess.?
.

Interesting idea Mr 650. My first thought is the original lower shock mount is only 1 3/4 inches from the end so there is not much room for relocation. Rather than going for a movable block, why not weld one large bracket  with three different mounting holes drilled?  In the late seventies when Husqvarna was sticking with the lay down shock theory, they had multiple lower shock positions.
BTW how did Lotsbub extend his pulley? Did he cut a new countershaft?
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Bentwheel FSO
2006 Suzuki 650 V-Strom
1977 Yamaha XS360
1972 Honda CL175
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bentwheel
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #16 - 11/25/05 at 11:25:58
 
Hammy211 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
but how would a Savage behave if only one 12.5 was mounted and the other remained stock to keep the rise under control?

.

You are kidding, right?


Hammy211 wrote;

>> I have seem similar setup of different functions on different sides of front forks, but without a crown brace I don't know if it would be effective on the rear of a bike.<<

I know what you mean. Modern motocross bikes use that theory but the forks are identical length.
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Bentwheel FSO
2006 Suzuki 650 V-Strom
1977 Yamaha XS360
1972 Honda CL175
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bentwheel
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #17 - 11/25/05 at 11:31:25
 
PerrydaSavage wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
8)Here's a couple of wheel/tire combos I'd love to see on an LS!

You got that right. I love those wheels, especially the orange.
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Bentwheel FSO
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Reelthing
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #18 - 11/28/05 at 05:06:36
 
mpescatori wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
This sounds interesting, as I believe my bike has a very firm ride because of worn out rear shocks.

What brand/model/length shocks would you recommend? I am 5'6" x 200+lbs, with my 8y.o. boy a more likely passenger than my 140lb wife.

Ideally, I would like my new shocks to be about one inch longer (higher) than the standard ones, with 3-5 step adjustment, Maybe that is what you call 'progressive'. In Italy we call that 'adjustable'. Roll Eyes

Any suggestions please?

Maurizio


If you open this pdf and go to the section on the 412 series shock - starting with the numbers 412-42xx you are into the metric shocks (these ship with metric size bushing - and the thin wall is a perfect fit for the savage).

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdf/7100-105.pdf

I used the 412-4232c at 90/130lb shock - I would not go any lighter for the savage - and it's too light if your going to have a passenger. The 412-4233c at 115/155lb would work better - these are both 11" and will give you 1/2" to 3/4" lift as measured in this post before you sit on the bike -  

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

if a little over an inch of lift is ok you have other options with the 11.5" shocks - you have the 90/130, 115/155 and 412-4236c at 125/170lb - I sure wouldn't go over the 125/170lb or you'll likely end up with a ridged frame type of ride that handles very poor, rides like crap, and vibes you to death - sorry if we have any ridged fans , been there , done that - but never again - I want a suspension that functions.
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Reelthing
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #19 - 11/28/05 at 05:09:36
 
Mr 650 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
Yo, I picked up a complete swingarm from the dude that parted a 2002, ($10) on ebay recently. (Reel, I backed off on the motor after I saw you were already on it)

I like the idea of the longer progressives, however I do not want to significantly increase the ride height.
Has anyone experience with cutting the lower shock mounts and moving them back to accommodate the longer Progressive shocks? I have not come up w/ an adjustable setup yet.
I was dreaming about a cool sliding block lower shock mount of some type that would allow infinite adjustment over about 1-2” frt to back, then chrome the whole mess.?
Then if that works, (darn this thing won't stay lit) repeat the shock mount  location on the original arm, (wouldn't have to be adjustable if I find a sweet spot w/ adj. deal) then carve/torture/reinforce my original arm for a wider wheel.
Looking at Lotsbub's bike, had to extend the pulleys and I am not really wanting to do that, but may be required. Wanna keep the belt.
Thought I should consult the SS brain trust 1st.
I can hack this $10 arm as required.


that motor got away - as did some fine progressive 440's while I was busy with thanksgiving - oh well family first toys second this time of year!
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kikuchiyo
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #20 - 11/28/05 at 15:14:45
 
Please explain to me what is the meaning behind these numbers  90/130, 115/155 rate lbs/in on progressive shocks. I am looking for a 12.5 inch shock, however, not sure what to do about those numbers. I am 180lbs + occasional 115 passenger. I would like a softer shocks than stock. \
What rate lbs/in do I need?
How stock shocks are rated?
Thanks.
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Reelthing
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #21 - 11/28/05 at 18:02:53
 
Ok  - Progressive springs are progressive.  Say a shock with 2inches of travel and is rated 90/130lb has a spring the takes 90lbs of pressure to compress the first inch and an additional 130lbs to compress the last/next inch.

I'm 180lbs (maybe a tad more after all that turkey!)- and have the 90/130lb 412-4232C shocks installed. So let's take the first number 90lbs and double it because we have 2 shocks that's 180lbs. So in theory my weight would compress the shocks 1 inch. This does not happen because the shocks are angled  - they only compress about 1/2 inch. So for you to get the same reaction from the shocks that I do and your 180+115 rider that's 295lb - let's round that up to 300lbs. So if we cut that in half - 150lbs - that is the load for each shock. But noway are you going to want 150lb springs they'd ride mighty stiff with just you on there - so in comes the 5 preload settings - each click adds load to the spring that makes the spring shorter - so for instance if you could add an inch of preload on the 90/130lb springs then the first inch (really the second inch because we already compressed it one inch with the preload) now takes 130lbs to compress - to finally get to what I would do with this much weight - is install the 412-4233C 115/155lb shocks and keep them on the 1st preload setting when by myself and add a couple of clicks or more until I did not bottom out when the extra 115lbs was with me. These are not going to give you as smooth a ride as the 90/130s when your by yourself but they should deal with the 300lb riders better and keep close to the stock bike stance.

Sorry - just read that you wanted 12.5 inch shocks - (after all those wonderful words!) since you have quit a lot more travel with a 12.5" something like the 412-4208c 105/150lb may do well - but remember - a 12.5" shock is going to lift - "jack up" the rearend quite a bit - say 3 inches at least - also you'll need to modify the belt guard as the steep angle causes it to rub the belt, and then you have the issue of find an up hill place to check the oil in order to get the sight glass level,,,,,

are you sure you want 12.5's?
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kikuchiyo
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #22 - 11/28/05 at 21:39:50
 
Reelthing! That was an awesome explanation, and I appreciate the effort. I DO want to raise the rear of the bike with 12.5 shocks and I do NOT want to mess with the belt rubbing against the belt guard (unless I can take belt guard of and that is the end of the problem). If removing the belt guard is not enough then what shock lenght do you recommend instead of 12.5 -12? 11.5?

Thanks for taking you time.
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Reelthing
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #23 - 11/28/05 at 23:08:54
 
Length wise I doubt that 11.5 would rub the belt guard but it looks like 12.5 does according to Savage_Rob and Babbalou I think. But it also was a minor mod to cut the top out where it rubs. If I calculate correct the 11.5 should give you about 1.25 inch of lift when measured from the cnter of the rear axle to the helment lock - see the bottom of this post
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

I'd bet the 412-4201C 115/155lb 11.5" would work if you want a bit of lift and carry 300lbs of riders - but like the 11" shocks - 90/130 would ride best solo - best is not the right word - softest without bottoming out.
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Savage_Rob
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #24 - 11/29/05 at 06:04:34
 
It really was a minor mod to cut the portion that rubbed but then the angle still just looked wrong so I took it off completely.  If you want to preserve the original look as much as possible, I think you're right about going with the 11" or 11.5".  I have come to really like the higher look and feel of mine with the 12.5" though.
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1998|MAC muffler|ceramic coated header|K&N air filter|Amal Mk2 carb|Odyssey battery|iridium plug|NC windshield|Dunlop 491s|Superbrace|EBC brake rotor|12.5" Progressive shocks|Kuryakyn ISO grips
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kikuchiyo
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #25 - 11/29/05 at 16:04:30
 
Thanks! I will look for 11.5". Hopefully there will not be trouble with the belt and oil checks.
Thanks again.
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VIC
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Re: New Rear Tire
Reply #26 - 12/01/05 at 18:11:24
 
I just removed my rear wheel to get a tube replaced and patch the almost new tire.  Any thoughts on doing this.  Some people tell me to get a new tire, but hell, the thing is almost like new.... Roll Eyes
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