It's not hard, just a bunch of steps. Just working from memory:

- Disconnect the cable from the lever on on the brake
- Loosen the axle and shove the wheel assembly all the way forward in the slots
- Fight the belt off the pulley (I don't know if you need to remove the belt guards for this. Mine were already off.)
- Mark the spacers so you can remember where they go
- Pull out the axle after removing the nut. Be prepared to catch everything
- Wrestle the wheel assembly out of the swingarm
- Lift the brake plate out of the hub. There will be a lot of brake dust, so gloves are advised.
- Lift up on opposite sides of the shoes so they pivot off the posts. Be prepared to chase the springs.

To replace:
- Attach the springs to the shoes
- Hold the shoes side-by-side, like a closed bear trap, postion the ends on the posts. The end of the shoes with the rounded notch go with the round post, the end with the flat surfaces goes with the brake lever post.
- Fold the shoes down like opening a bear trap. Be prepared for things to slip around and for the springs to come off in one or more places.
- Fiddle with the way the ends of the shoes fit on the posts. One end needs to be inside the recesses in the post and the other end needs to be on the flat part of the brake lever post.
- If the shoes bind when you try to fit them back into the hub, note the shiny spots on the shoes where they rub the hub, then use a flat file to take off some of the braks material.
- Put the wheel assembly back in place and follow the disassembly instructions backwards
- Make sure you match the alignment tick marks so the wheel is straight

I'm guessing it should all take no more than a half hour.

I only have 11,000 miles on my bike but I have to really push down on the rear brake pedal for it to respond.Where is the rear brake drum adjuster located?

It's not like the old star adjusters on a car. Like Dave said, follow the brake cable to the back of the bike. The adjusting nut at the end of the cable will allow you to take out some of the slack and hopefully get your brakes working correctly.

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Where should the actuator arm be positioned on the cam for NEW shoes?

Where should the "SPLIT" be located in relation to the "INDICATOR" mark on the cam?

DesertRat - that's a good question.  Trying to comprehend what the wear indicator is saying is a mystery.  Do you check it with the brake applied or not applied?  What is the default position for the arm?

I don't think anybody looks at it to determine the condition of the shoes.  Seems like a gimmick feature.  Just put the arm where it lands in the middle.  It's always Good that way!  LOL.

Dang.  Tough state and inspections!  My guy just measured the tire thread depth like he knew what he was doing.  I demonstrated the turn signal and horn, and I was done.

And the brake wear indicator is read with the brake fully applied.  I guess that should be intuitive, but I have my moments most days.  Just call me Woody!

I wouldn’t do that.  The axle is installed from right to left to prevent wheel rotation from loosening the axle.  Installing the axle from left to right encourages wheel rotation to loosen the axle.  Right to left is correct and in accordance with the design.