That won't fix the cause of the squeak, but it may help the symptoms.  Though I haven't done it on my Savage, I drilled my double disks myself on my XS850 using a rotary table to get the spacing even.  Just make sure to deburr and chamfer the holes when you do, or you'll eat your pads in a hurry.

When mine start squeaking, I do a few real hard slow speed stops.  That seems to clean them up for a while.

Also, when I take it the diy carwash, after the rest is clean, I run a high power spray (rinse not soap) down between the brakes and it seems to alo keep the squeaks away.

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:


EBC supplies a drilled rotor ( the only aftermarket available as far as I know).
Fitted the rotor without deburring and chamfering the holes. Inner brakepad ( sintered type) worn to the metal in less the 100Km. So went back to the original Suzuki part.

Greetz
Kropatchek

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:


That's why I suggested the deburr and chamfer....Hard to believe that EBC did that, too.

I did that on my previous bike, a 1986 Yamaha XS250, and the brakes did behave a bit better, but I did it for increasing braking power, not squeaking....

RW

Oklahoma_Mike wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:


This is a very good simple explanation.  I actually majored in physics back in the 14th century (1985-1991), and we studied lots of heat related phenomena stuff.

The nerdy pocket-protector physics goes like this.

Remember Newton's laws, one of which was "energy is niether created nor destroyed, just converted from one form to another?"

A bike (mass=m) moving at a certain speed (velocity=v) has a certain kinetic energy(E), I think it's E=1/2mv² if I remember right.  More speed = more energy, put in there by the motor which converts the fuel&air's combustion energy to mechanical energy (and noise and heat).  The bike's mass is constant, it don't change, so when we are moving the energy is directly related to the square of the velocity.  [glow=red,2,300]E~v² [/glow]

Brakes slow the bike down.  So where does the energy go?  It ain't destroyed.  It gets converted to HEAT, and the change in temp is abbreviated (deltaT, or dT since I can't make a greek "delta" on the keyboard).  Brakes introduce friction which heats up the pads and rotor (also bearings, tires, etc. etc. etc.).  These have mass (m) and a thermal coefficient (c).   As long as we are not melting or boiling the parts, the energy(E)-to-heat (dT)relationship is E=mc(dT).  Thermal coeff (c) is constant, it don't change, so change in energy is directly proportional to the change in temp (dT) -- [glow=red,2,300]E~dT [/glow]

The E from change in speed and the E from dT are the same E, for braking purposes, so the change in temp of the brake parts is directly proportional to the SQUARE of the change in velocity(v):  [glow=red,2,300]dT~(dV)² [/glow]

You can see at least mathematically why things get hot so fast.  You can also tell it when you burn your fingers on the hot parts or see the smoke from the brakes.

The deltaT has to be dissipated, or the brakes will get red, glaze over, oxidize, anneal, and eventually melt.  There comes a point where the brakes can't physically get any hotter till parts melt (this is called latent heat of fusion).  At this point, we can no longer convert mechanical energy to heat energy and the brakes don't work! The closer we get to this point, the less the brakes work.  In racing, they call this "brake fade", and it's a big problem they deal with by going to drilled rotors.  The drilled rotors increase the surface area and turbulence of the air, cooling the steel faster, and lessening the brake fade.

We don't see this very often on the street, but it's still happening to a lesser degree.

bobo383 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:


In conclusion:  Drill equally spaced holes in your rotor if you want, but don't drill too many.  Brake pads can't grab air