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going full synthetic (Read 9 times)
mrbusdriver
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going full synthetic
04/23/05 at 17:12:50
 
About time for my 2nd (1000 mile) oil change and I am jumping to full synthetic 10W40 Castrol Syntech. I had heard great stuff on Mobil 1 redcap, but this is gone, replaced (I believe) with a gold cap. I am not sure if it's the same formula, so I'm going with the Castrol, which I've also heard good stuff about.
Maybe I'm over cautious...will most any auto type 10W40 work as long as it's not "energy conserving" in the SAE sticker? This Castrol is API Service SM SL SJ CF which I understand exceeds SF/SG.
What might I expect in any changes in how my 03 Savage runs? Some say it smooths shifting (mine is "clunky" at times).
...or better yet, any reason that I shouldn't put this stuff in the machine? (other than the 4 something a quart cost...)
Thanks for inputs...don't want to get an "oil war" going here...
Dave
03 Savage, 918 miles
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Reelthing
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #1 - 04/23/05 at 18:14:35
 
I use mobil 1 v-twin synthetic 20w-50 - I started with 10w-40 but it seems to me the clutch slips a little w/10w-40 in higher gears and heavy throttle after the bike gets fairly hot - 20w-50 does not do this @85deg f outside we'll see this summer at 100f.
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WD
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #2 - 04/24/05 at 01:10:23
 
My wife's 96 800 Intruder loves Castrol Syntec blend 10W40. But not straight syn. My 98 Savage works best on 20W50 Castrol GTX dino-juice. It didn't like synthetic 10W40. Changed the oil, rode to a rally 3 or 4 hours from home. Next day did the rally "circuit", about 30 minutes of crawling at idle speed. Bike started sonding funny, so I checked the oil. It was ALL gone. Replaced it with GTX 20W50, hasn't been a problem since.

Best advice is to try it and see how your bike likes it. Manufacturing tolerances aren't very consistent, some parts could be high end of the scale, other low end of the scale, on the same bike. Just how mass production is. Find an oil your bike likes.
-WD
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LondonThing
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #3 - 04/24/05 at 04:14:46
 
Is it OK to use Mineral..?? Im currently using it in my savage....
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Oklahoma_Mike
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #4 - 04/24/05 at 10:00:02
 
Reelthing and WD are you guys talking about Cycle oil only or auto oil? just want to make sure. cycle oil around here is far more exp. than auto oil. 8)
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #5 - 04/24/05 at 10:24:40
 
Oklahoma_Mike wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
Reelthing and WD are you guys talking about Cycle oil only or auto oil? just want to make sure. cycle oil around here is far more exp. than auto oil. 8)


Cycle i belive.... Smiley
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mrbusdriver
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #6 - 04/24/05 at 12:52:35
 
Well, took the bike for a short spin to warm it some then swapped out oil and filter, fresh syn in there now...and it started drizzling as I was finishing...rats!
Forecasting rain and snowshowers tonite, occasional  rain tomorrow. I am really, really ready for some good weather right about now!
I did get the engine run some, parked, after the change. Two quarts even, shows on the high end of the range in the window.
Piece of cake with my 2 wrenches, drain pan, funnel, and a rag. Not too bad for this rookie wrencher.

Dave

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Reelthing
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #7 - 04/24/05 at 13:08:29
 
Oklahoma_Mike wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
Reelthing and WD are you guys talking about Cycle oil only or auto oil? just want to make sure. cycle oil around here is far more exp. than auto oil. 8)

I'm using Mobil-1 v-twin cycle oil - autozone has/had it for $6 something a quart - tried the 10w-40 but it didn't feel right - the 20w-50 feels better after the bike warms up a little
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Oklahoma_Mike
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #8 - 04/24/05 at 14:41:32
 
Thank you sir 8)
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #9 - 04/24/05 at 15:24:42
 
I use CAR oils in both the Savage and the Intruder. Works fine for a fraction of the cost of "motorcycle" oil. Based on my HD wrenching experience, same stuff, different package. Might be different now, but since my bike's run fine on car oil, that's what I'm staying with.
-WD
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rkutzner
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #10 - 04/24/05 at 18:14:57
 
Motorcycle (and ATV) oils have additives that help them survive the demands of the clutch - preventing premature breakdown.  I'd never use a car oil in any cylce or ATV with a clutch.  Car oil might seem alright, but I doubt long term it would show itself to prevent wear like a motorcycle oil.  I use Honda GN4 in every bike/ATV I own, they make a synthetic, too, but I'm sure the others mentioned are good, too.  Use motorcycle oil, you GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR, it's not some conspiracy Grin

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LANCER
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #11 - 04/24/05 at 21:07:21
 
I started out using regular auto oil from Walmarts shelf, my Savage was OK with it, a couple of different brands.  When I switched to Amsoil the engine was noticeably smoother, slight...but noticeable.  I get it for $4 a quart, so $8 twice a year isn't exactly anything I would give a second thought to.  
No clutch problems...use 20W50.
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WD
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #12 - 04/24/05 at 23:24:26
 
My 98 is 7+ years in my possession. I have used the factory 10W40 twice, once one I took delivery of the bike and then after dealer service (bike wasn't happy). I tried factory 20W50 (bike was VERY unhappy). Quaker State 4X4 full synthetic (supposedly for low RPM, low speed operation) and that was a BIG mistake (the oil disappeared in less than 24 hours of riding). I switched to Castrol GTX (North American market) 20W50 CAR dino-juice. The bike never ran or shifted better. Suzuki quality control is rather laughable, so you have to try different weights and types until you find what works best in YOUR bike. No two Savages have the same operating characteristics. They are close, but they aren't the same.

When I rode HD and old (pre-unit) British vertical twins, I used Cessna (yes, the airplane company) 50 weight winter, 70 weight summer for the engines, 90 weight gear oil in transmissions and primary cases. Tried the HD motorcycle oil once, it cost me a very sweet Knucklehead engine. Rebuilt it and switched back to Cessna oil. Which at the time was dino-juice.

Formulation is less important than frequency of changing the oil. My Savage was quite happy on once a year GTX and new filter change. This year, if I can start riding again, it will get 3 or 4 oil changes. GTX and new filter each time.
-WD
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #13 - 04/24/05 at 23:30:30
 
it's not what type, but how often you change oil and filter. do it at least twice a year. by doing so i got
98,000 miles on my 81 gn 400 with only delco 400 10-40

never had a problem,  that is till i spaced out and ran it dry.  nuff said..

don't by the hype.  if it has the proper rating it will work. now if it makes you "feel better" buying an overpriced oil, well be my guest.

any body know about contact lenses and cleaner.

the disposable 30 day lens is the exact same lens as the daily.  

the cleaner is all the same  just different packaging.  this if straight from  ciba-giegy the maker of both the lens and cleaner.


some one on a forum once said,  oil is like toothpaste or deorderant.  there are many different kinds, yet they all do the same thing. it's just your personal preference.
me  i prefer to spend my money on fuel. 87 octane, and lot's of it.

as for all the charts, grafts, and figures out there. all i can say is liars can figgure, and figures can lie.  i just know what has worked for me. and it's delco 400.....
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Oklahoma_Mike
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Re: going full synthetic
Reply #14 - 04/26/05 at 05:50:36
 
Lancer do you get your Amsoil from Walyworld?

What is everyone else running I put in the suzuki stock stuff because a case of it came with the bike but I have noticed the gears are not quite right and the clutch is not consistant in its feel. seems to give a little when the bike gets warm.
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