A look at replacing the front brake pads.....



BTW - if you break loose the banjo fitting for the brake line, you'll get a whole new education in bleeding brakes.  If it isn't necessary, don't do it.









Most likely the piston will need to move back into the caliper to install new pads.  You can use the old pads with a c-clamp to SLOWLY compress the piston back into the caliper.  Don't tighten too much.  Common sense.  

Then clean all parts with brake cleaner and lube the pins under the rubber seals.

Now apply anti-squeal grease to piston and backs of pads.

Most of the time  if You smear liberally the back of the pads with some silicone, the noise disapears. Also when You pull the fr. wheel out it will be a good idea to take out the brake rotor and use a fine sand paper/500 and above/ to brake the glase.

bobo383 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


The anti-squeal stuff has a high melting temperature.  Calipers can get hot and you don't want the grease to melt and drip on the friction surfaces.

My Clymer's manual states that you should use a torque wrench to re-tighten some of the bolts (I forgot which one) to the proper tightness.

When I look at my Clymer's tonight, I'll know which ones and report that info here.

Cheers. Tammi

Edit:

The torque for the mounting bolts is 18-28 ft.-lbs., and it's 7-11 ft.-lbs. for the pad pin bolt.

In the above pic, you can see the pads, spring and shim [tabs] (which I think is apart of the spring)
The pad is inserted between the shim tabs to minimize squealing later.

Unsticking the brake cylinder, easy, squeeze the brake lever, keep pumping until it pops out.  Add fluid if necessary.  
That said, use a c clamp and a brake pad to press in the cylinder 1st to break it loose if you find the 1st method too tough.

Please realize he did state don't do it if you're not going there and getting pics of the whole thing is worth doing for many that'll never see it apart.