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Message started by Greg_650 on 11/03/04 at 12:43:02

Title: Front Brake Pads
Post by Greg_650 on 11/03/04 at 12:43:02

A look at replacing the front brake pads.....

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake11web.jpg

BTW - if you break loose the banjo fitting for the brake line, you'll get a whole new education in bleeding brakes.  If it isn't necessary, don't do it.

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake10web.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake02web.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake08web.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake09web.jpg

Most likely the piston will need to move back into the caliper to install new pads.  You can use the old pads with a c-clamp to SLOWLY compress the piston back into the caliper.  Don't tighten too much.  Common sense.  

Then clean all parts with brake cleaner and lube the pins under the rubber seals.

Now apply anti-squeal grease to piston and backs of pads.

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake06web.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake05web.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake04web.jpg

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by bobo383 on 04/23/05 at 05:28:00

I did not have "anti-squeel" grease, but I got some white grease off the tip of my grease gun and used it.  No probs so far.  

Anything special about anti-squeel?  I figured grease was grease (except the dialectric points grease).

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by slavy on 08/09/05 at 08:43:23

Most of the time  if You smear liberally the back of the pads with some silicone, the noise disapears. Also when You pull the fr. wheel out it will be a good idea to take out the brake rotor and use a fine sand paper/500 and above/ to brake the glase.

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by Reelthing on 08/12/05 at 10:25:51

Good tip Slavy - I did that the other day - put the bike on the jack and spun tire awhile with 600 grit on the rotor - never been quiter - these are SBC ceramic pads that didn't make much noise - but the little they did is gone.  

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by Steve530 on 10/21/06 at 21:26:26


bobo383 wrote:
I did not have "anti-squeel" grease, but I got some white grease off the tip of my grease gun and used it.  No probs so far.  

Anything special about anti-squeel?  I figured grease was grease (except the dialectric points grease).


The anti-squeal stuff has a high melting temperature.  Calipers can get hot and you don't want the grease to melt and drip on the friction surfaces.



Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by Greg_650 on 02/15/07 at 08:45:03

These pads are ready for a change.

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/BrakePads_1457.jpg

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/BrakeCaliper_1459.jpg

This one shows the brake light switch.

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/BrakeLever_1464.jpg



Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by Tammi on 04/27/07 at 06:48:32

My Clymer's manual states that you should use a torque wrench to re-tighten some of the bolts (I forgot which one) to the proper tightness.

When I look at my Clymer's tonight, I'll know which ones and report that info here.

Cheers. Tammi

Edit:

The torque for the mounting bolts is 18-28 ft.-lbs., and it's 7-11 ft.-lbs. for the pad pin bolt.


Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by ThumperPaul on 09/12/22 at 07:54:07

I think I’m missing something.  Pictures and steps don’t illustrate main details.  Like how to remove and install the pads.  Also, discussing not removing the banjo fitting and then showing a photo of all the parts disassembled and off the bike is a tease.  If the piston is seized, can it be unseized and removed/cleaned (if not too pitted)?  I’ll figure it out, but I wish this tech section how-to was more detailed.

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by verslagen1 on 09/12/22 at 09:33:09

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Brake06web.jpg

In the above pic, you can see the pads, spring and shim [tabs] (which I think is apart of the spring)
The pad is inserted between the shim tabs to minimize squealing later.

Unsticking the brake cylinder, easy, squeeze the brake lever, keep pumping until it pops out.  Add fluid if necessary.  
That said, use a c clamp and a brake pad to press in the cylinder 1st to break it loose if you find the 1st method too tough.

Please realize he did state don't do it if you're not going there and getting pics of the whole thing is worth doing for many that'll never see it apart.

Title: Re: Front Brake Pads
Post by ThumperPaul on 09/12/22 at 09:48:19

Thanks for the reply Verslagen.  It’s like some of the steps and photos are missing.  My piston is fully extended and I’ve tried the easy way of bleeding and squeezing - stuck like chuck!  I’m trying to wedge between the old pads and sprayed the piston with PB Blaster and I’m getting nowhere.  I really don’t want to buy a new caliper.

PS - what does the 5mm Allen screw ease/tighten?  Thanks.

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