I've thought of another way to correct your cam timing.
Take the amount you have skimed of the barrel+head divide it by the cam sprocket radius and multiply the resultant by the distance fom the cam center to the bolt center, this gives you the amount you need elongate the bolt hole by to get correct timing. Repeat for each bolt and the pin.No need to measure degrees or mark cams.

Now all You ave to do is learn how to measure squish and valve to piston clearance.

Clive W  

The first thing to check when looking for more compression/less squish is the valve to piston clearance.
To do this you need a degree disc a dial gauge (vernier caliper might do) and a positive stop tool.
The positive stop is an old spark plug with it's guts taken out and a piece of 1/4"ish welded on to poke down the cylinder, about 90mm should do.
Presuming you can get the degree disc on the end of the crank put the stop in and find BDC,take the stop out.
Now go to 12 degrees before TDC on the exhaust stroke and push the exhaust valve down (Inner springs only or maybe something softer) measureing the travel.
Do the same with the degree disc at 12 degrees after TDC, push the inlets down measuring the travel again.
A v safe clearance is .080".
Take the smallest clearance (in or ex) and take .080" of it. This is a "free" gain,no piston machineing needed, just barrel or head.
When doing this kind of stuff your engine will be up and down lots.

Clive W  

I should be able to start thinking about this next month....when the raining cold starts.  Thanks.

I have to pull the top end off my spouse's this winter to fix a persistant oil leak too (not the plug)...so I'll have a busy winter.

No, I haven't....sorry.  Guess that I need to go back there.  Just been busy....

I may do this during the winter.

I just checked on the pricing for a dyno run ($49.95).  It will run me roughly $100 for before and after.  I don't know how much tuning they will let me do (it doesn't seem like the normal "1 hour" of renting the dyno and rather a quick 2-3 runs).  They do have the exhaust gas analyzer so atleast I don't have to drill my pipe for the WBO2 setup I use on my car.

I will also have to play around with what jet I need to compensate for the freer exhuast once I port it.

The LS650 has plenty of power! The problem is the gear ratios provided. First gear is too high, you are going at 8 mph at idle, should be 3-5 mph. I'm used to dirt bikes where you can can go at walking speed. This is better for parades too. Second and third are the performance gears. Second gear grabs the bike at very low speed, 15-20 mph, and thrusts you to 50 mph in no time. I find myself in 3rd a lot especially under 50 mph. Fifth gear is nearly useless and ought to be eliminated, and 4th moved up to 1:1.

I stand corrected.
So then, the new 4th should be between the old 4th and 5th, just a little taller than the old 4th.