Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:


Seems like I read euro gas varies from U.S. spec gas.
I have noticed our summer reciepe oxygenated gas seems to backfire more.

I remember 70's car's idle solinoid that would energize w/ ignition circuit then, on shut off, would spring-return away from the idle stop screw, closing the thottle plate compleatly and was supposed to kill the run-on.
The compression release is a much better fix.

I wonder perhaps if the idle is set to high and aggrevates this 'backlash'?

I seem to have had heard this backlash once while the bike was new to me.
Now in order to prevent bluing/excessive heat while in traffic, I tend to idle my stock Suzy down after a mile or 2, blip it and listen a couple times while waiting for a traffic light to change. I will set it as low as it will go and still run. This will require the throttle be bliped on decel to prevent it from dieing while rolling up to a light w/clutch in and that the idle adjuster up 1/2 turn when cold starting too. backfires are less common,but it's summer and I expect them to increase w/ cooler weather. I pulled the idle brass plug long ago and tend to keep the mixture screw a little fat to help w/ backfires.
BTW; On occasion, it seems to idle faster so I slow it, then it may be too slow @ the next light and I put it back.
I will blip it and quickly & completely open my rt. hand and let it snap back to idle stop, then push the throttle shaft against the idle stop to check if the return spring is closing all the way. It never slows down, so it seems to always be fully returning, yet idle speed tend to vary sometimes. I guess it's just engine temp vs. weather/air density.

I have not noticed the backlash problem since I tend to keep the idle down.
It seems like this may help prevent that problem?

P.S. Nice diagram there general. I see you have been promoted to 5-stars.

> The hard knock would come IF the rotor tried to turn
> backwards because the crankshaft tried to turn
> backwards....that would force the starter drives in
>reverse...

The piston approaching TDC without spark could fall back down and cause the crank to spin backwards which would lock the starter's one-way clutch and spin the starter backwards.  Done enough, it would certainly peel gear teeth.

The noise from the '88 was that of the starter spinning, then as the crank stopped a clunk like the one-way had finally disengaged.

There is something very odd, but very good, about my S40 which may be related to all of this...  It always seems to start without cranking a full revolution.  It's almost like the engine previously stopped with the piston approaching TDC with a compressed charge (and does not spin backward).  Then, tapping the starter button moves the piston a few degrees toward top and ignites the mix.  I've never had any bike appear to 'instant start' like this.  Whatever is going on, the starter doesn't seem to churn on shut-down.

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:


And Mr. Kropachek wins!  He is very right.  Actually it looks like both of these gears have been changed, while the rotor and clutch stayed the same.  The gears in my photo are the same as the ones in 1996.

Now the question...are these gears interchangeable?  Were the cases or anything else changed?

This photo belongs in the other topic.

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:


Hi,

sorry for long time not answering. I had to do some other things. But i read this thread now. Very interetsing. I don't understand all words. But i understand the things.

Its nice that you want to help translating. I think we do next steps via mail.  I found very good explanations for the problems here. I think we put all infos togehter in a "box" .

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:


Hi,

Ok - on way to prevent tooth-"crashes" ist to change the gears and the motorcover. Costs?

The other way ist do add the little elektric for about 15 EUR. Nearly the same in Dollars. All parts are available in a good electronikshop. Simple connection with 5 wires.

To finish an installable Kit like on the Photo from single Parts  i need about 45 Minutes. Detailed Buildingscript is available.

Installation ist done in 10 Minutes (without time for replacing tank and seat)

Kropatchek wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:


Ok,

i will work a little bit on the text and mail it to you. Together with the buildingscript. You than can add infos from this thread if you want.

Please wait a few days. I have many work with germans "Mondaydemonstrations"