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Turn signal conversion: add run/brake (Read 439 times)
Paladin.
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Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
12/26/05 at 18:18:31
 

This is an old mod post that has had the legal world rotate out from under it in many states.   Check your local laws before doing this.

From Cruiser Customizing:

The advertizing blurb claims:
Quote:
Think of this - your rear turn signal housings are illuminated only when the turn signal is flashing.  These are dead lights the rest of the time.
Our signal kits simply, easily and legally will make those dead housings additional red running and brake lights the rest of the time. On some bikes, it effectively doubles the size of your rear running and brake lights without adding any additional housings. It does not alter the operation of the turn signals and the red light shuts off when the amber signal comes on. Other kits make your signal lights into full time running lights and signals, but in amber - ILLEGAL on any motor vehicle and much more expensive than our kit plus no brake lights!. No dying or replacement of the lens is required either.
This kit was designed to add additional lighting after dusk when it is needed most.  
Priority of illumination as follows (first is highest and overrides all others):
1. Turn Signal
2. Brake Light
3. Running Light

The product has been redesigned now and is even easier to install.


Wife gave me one for Christmas.

Has two small rings of LEDS on a pair of circuit boards and a supplied tube of clear silicon glue.  The LED rings are glued to the inside of the amber turn signal lenses.   Let sit 24 hours after gluing so you don't knock them loose when installing.  10% done.

Two thin pairs of wires get snaked from inside the turn signals, down inside the stems, follow the turn signal wires to under the seat.  75% done.  This is the tough part of the job.

Kit is supplied with taps that bite into the stop light lead, the run light lead, and the left and right turn signal leads.  The taps take standard 1/4" spade connectors, also supplied.   A pair of supplied three wire splice things contain diodes/resistor under shrink tubing to do the electrical magic.  The LEDs, being low power draw, get the hot lead from the run/brake leads and the ground lead from the hot lead of the turn signals -- which is ground through the turn signal bulb when off.  When hot (turn signal on) the LEDs lose their ground and go dark.

Using the spade connectors means if you get your wires crossed up you can easily switch connections to correct.  (a wrong hookup will have the turn signal turning off the wrong side run/brake light.)

End result -- as advertized!

I now have my stock red taillight plus red lights from my amber turn signals giving me a triangle of running lights.  Hit the brakes and all three brighten to brake light intensity.  The turn signal shuts down the associated run/brake giving a clean pure amber turn signal with the red (bright brake or low intensity run) light returning when the amber goes dark.  The other side remains a steady red.

Advantage:
Complete kit, nothing more to buy (not counting tools)
More legal red lights for higher visibility of run/brake lights.
Additional run/brake lights to the single stock lamp -- in case of bulb burnout your rear remains lit.
Normal amber turn signal operation.

Disadvantage:
$50
couple of hours of time
more wires under the seat.
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« Last Edit: 07/13/12 at 11:58:05 by Oldfeller »  
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Savage_Rob
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #1 - 01/21/06 at 10:57:13
 
Agreed on all counts.  Paladin's signals are relocated because of his saddlebags.  To run the wiring on a stock Savage, you need to remove the side rails also.  It works perfectly with the BackOFF brakelight modulator also.
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jrm8486
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #2 - 01/28/06 at 19:18:14
 
Be careful if you order these, I ordered a set and they don't fit the S40 because they have a different turn signals. I went to the web site and ordered some for a bullet type turn signal but may have to cut some of the back out of the lens. I'll let everyone know how & if it works.
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millerjag
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #3 - 10/07/06 at 11:26:15
 
My husband bought two of these kits (we have two bikes) Once he figured out the wire placement in the turn signals, installation was easy.  It makes a hugh difference at night from the single brake/tail light concept.  We both thought it was well worth the money.
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barry68v10
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #4 - 10/07/06 at 13:51:41
 
Also be careful of your state safety laws.  Here in MD ANY modification to lights or turn signals will cause the cycle to fail the safety inspection (or so said the MVA (Maryland Vehicle Administration.))
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suzuki_ls650
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #5 - 12/07/07 at 17:14:26
 
jrm8486 FSO X2 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
Be careful if you order these, I ordered a set and they don't fit the S40 because they have a different turn signals. I went to the web site and ordered some for a bullet type turn signal but may have to cut some of the back out of the lens. I'll let everyone know how & if it works.

jrm8486, did you ever get these to fit on your S40?  Since the reflective lense is attached/glued to amber lense for the S40, did you have to cut the back of the reflective lense to be able to fit the LED ring light inside.

Also, which model (part) number of conversion kit did you order?  Is it p/n 01318?
http://www.electricalconnection.com/other-lighting/tsk-attached-refractor.htm
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #6 - 12/08/07 at 07:50:26
 
Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:01:
 To run the wiring on a stock Savage, you need to remove the side rails also.  


I had a thought about that the other day...when looking at my spouse's bike.

If you remove the side rails and change the turn signal wiring, is there any cosmetic or functional reason that you can't just run the wires up under the passenger seat and back down to their original connection point?

Either way the wires are visible to some extent where they exit the fender rail, but it might make access to the wires more convenient for the next time...without having to remove the fender rails again.

After all, it is hard to remove the rails without scratching the fender too.

Just a thought...
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Paladin.
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #7 - 12/08/07 at 09:08:52
 
Where the turn signal mounts does not match a hole in the fender.  To use the original turn signal location you need to run the wiring in the fender rail, or drill another hole in the fender.

If you relocate the turn signal far rear you can run the wire thru the center of the fender following the route of the tail/brake light wiring.

Hmmmm....  If you use a trailer light controller you could use the three wires to the run/brake light, plus chassis ground, to run turn/run/brake on a pair of two-filament bulbs -- no extra wires needed.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Turn signal conversion: add run/brake
Reply #8 - 12/08/07 at 09:44:23
 
No.  I just meant running the wires over the fender in a different place.  Stock, they run along the inside of the rail and then go under the frame at the rider seat.

What if they didn't run forward under the rail, but just went up to the passenger seat instead?  Then you might be able to remove the wires without removing the fender rail.

Just thinking, but of course, I don't have that problem on mine Tongue
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