Hey gang - thanks all for the add, I’m really excited to be here and part of a knowledgeable community!

I’ve just been handed down an 05 S40, brakes frozen and been sitting a few years. I’m planning to 1) get it running 2) enjoy it for a bit then 3) convert to a cafe racer as my new project. I’ve got a 95 DR250S right now that’s my commuter so not in a rush to get the Savage complete that quickly.

I know the RYCA kit has huge popularity while it was available but now that it’s not, I’m trying to think of what’s going to be my pain points. So far the ones that stick out to me are: moving the rear sets back and swing arm mods to fit 18in wheel. These feel a little daunting so hoping for any advice you guys have - I’ve been searching the forums and found good stuff so far but send over any links you have as well.

Note: I’ve got a friend who runs a CNC shop so can get most things within reason fabricated and another that welds (but hoping to learn myself as well).

Thank you Armen! I’m very excited about it and def will post pics. So let me ask a question - do you have to mod the swingarm with an 18 in. wheel or did you have to do the mod because of the front pulley?

Armen wrote on 08/24/24 at 19:37:45:


I am currently in the process of finishing up some mid mount pegs - the interior mounting plates to the engine are the same and all you would need to change is the outer plates.  I can post a photo of the inner plates with a scale so you could copy and make a set....or maybe I can find somebody to scan it (I don't have a scanner at home).

I do believe you need to notch the swingarm if you run a 130/70-18 rear tire....especially if you run the Kawasaki front pulley.  When you build your back wheel use a 3.50" wide rim so the 130/70 tire will have the proper profile.  Next time I have my rear tire off I will stick it into a stock swingarm and see what the fit looks like.  I am currently running the Double Kawasaki (front and rear) pulley and the 18" wheel/tire fits without doing any changes to the swingarm.......but this pulley combination is a lot of machining work and the tall gearing is not for everybody (currently only Badwolf and I are using it).

I took a different approach and chose a tire that didn't require swingarm mods.  I even ran it with the stock rear fender for a bit during my build.

I've used these tires with a stock swingarm, belt, and pulleys. The circumference and width are from Shinko's website.

120/80-18   Shinko 705 (25.55" x 4.69") Dual Sport
4.10-18       Shinko 705 (25.16" x 4.09") Dual Sport
100/90-18   Shinko 712 (25.08 "x 3.98") Street

Looks are subjective but I think they fit the style of my bike.

My build thread is here.

Bohica88
If you modify a lower triple clamp to work as a top one, you can slide the tubes up thru the triple tree.
You will have to use clip-ons, because there won’t be clamps for the bars.
It’s also a much more sturdy top tree than the original.

The stock Savage lower tree. Get one on Ebay.
Theres a piece somewhere here on the forum on how to do it.

Bohica88 wrote on 08/26/24 at 19:48:31:
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It's your bike and you can build it however you like.  The only rule here is that the fork lowers must NOT hit the lower triple clamp with the fork springs removed.





RYCA used longer shocks (13" vs 10.5") and shortened the forks by 2 inches.  Many of the cafe builds did the same or similar.  I kept the stock shocks and shortened the forks.  Others have the stock forks with longer shocks.  It just depends on what you are trying to accomplish with looks and performance.

There are three ways to lower the forks. RYCA used a 2" spacer to reduce the travel of the fork.  This will lower the front while keeping the stock handlebar clearance, but you lose 2" of fork travel.  This is probably the most common method.  I did this but I wasn't happy with the reduced travel and later moved on to a different method.

The second method is to purchase an aftermarket clamp or modified top clamp ( like Dave's) that will allow you slide the tubes up to lower the front end.  This method retains full travel and is adjustable.  It perfect if you plan to use clip-on bars but can interfere with some standard bars.  (DC Motive is operated by a forum member SpamyToo.)

Or you can have the tubes cut down and new threads cut threaded to shorten the overall length of the forks.  This is what I ended up doing.  Dave had set done this way as well.  It retains the stock travel and looks.  The drawback is you have to send them to a competent machinist.  Dave and I used Gordy Goodworks.  He does great work but it can take a while.  At one point I wondered if I was going to get my forks back, but I did and it worked out great.

You can see how he does it here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNiblp32Qq0