But so far so good, I adjusted the lash, there was perhaps around 2 thou to take up, thought it was a good idea to quieten up the top end, to better evaluate the pesky noise from the engine.
The cam lobes look much like when the cam went into the engine, that blackish surface, well oiled. I must have done something right

Is there a tolerance for this?  The 0.11mm seems very small.

Glad you’re seeing it as an opportunity.  I wouldn’t be so interested in the enlightenment provided.

Pretty cool feeler gages.  Nice job.  I hate adjusting valves on this engine.  You need three extra hands.

The extractor for the alternator rotor.

I called the local Suzuki dealer if they have one, and if I could perhaps rent it for a couple of hours.
Considering his prompt NO!, that was probably a stupid question.
He checked with Suzuki Denmark, if they had it in stock, another negative, but then the price was an alarming 642USD, so I would have passed on it anyway.
Instead I found this one on Ebay, they seem to ship real fast, so I will only have to wait a bit over the weekend to get it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124564606776?itmmeta=01HZQ62JVKKH22FDFEM33VY3GC&ha...

Btw, I got the carburettor (36mm Mikuni from Lancer) jetting dialled in nicely, so that I can now even drive downhill, in a city environment and close the throttle with confidence, meaning that the crackle, sputter and kaboom is now a thing of the past, just the deep rumble from the exhaust. The way it is supposed to be.

Idle jet: #17.5
Airscrew 2.5 turns out.
Needle all the way up: clip in the lowest groove
Main jet #200

Cheers, Finn Hammer

Paul,

That may be the way to go in the future, but for now I am mainly concerned with the behaviour of the bike when toddeling around town. If I get to do prolonged mileage at higher speeds, then I can start to evaluate the need for a bigger main jet.

All,

The tedium of waiting for the right tools proved to be a prolonged ordeal, due to customs intercepting of the parcel from now no longer EU England.
However, with the tools at hand, the challenge had just started.
The bolt holding the generator rotor seemed to be impossible to unscrew. The impact driver was unable to loosen the bolt.
In the end I grabbed the most sturdy spanner I have, the Cross Wheel Wrench I use when I change wheels on the car, and extended one of the perpendiculars with a 1 meter long pipe, and finally the bolt budged, but remained very tough to turn untill finally all the way out, and it is a very long bolt!
Turns out, it was given liberal amounts of locktite.
I cannot understand why this should be necessary on a keyed taper joint, but what.
From this point it was easy to get to the nut holding the flywheel in place, and this nut was solid.
The tool to test this was made from a short 50mm socket, which I first faced on the lathe, to remove the generous chamfer, so that it could get a full grip on the nut. This big socket needs a 3/4" driver, so I welded a 30mm 1/2" socket to it, but before that, I turned the 3/4" hole up  to fit snugly on the taper of the crank journal, which is a benefit because then the spanner does not tilt or kink, but sits solid on the nut when applying torque to it.
Lesson of the day: Unlike the delicate internals of the right side engine cover, on the left side, the cover conceals some rather crude stuff, where the heavy tools come into play. I have been here, I have seen the size of the starter clutch set, and it is not a place I wish to revisit anytime soon.

So the hunt for the clonkin' continues, but since the engine is running strong still, and has neither seized nor blown up, I guess I'd better get accustomed to it.

One big benefit would be the possibility of purchasing the flat top piston in oversize so that it could be fitted to a pristine freshly bored and honed cylinder, instead of to the odd already worn stock 94mm bore.

Cheers, Finn Hammer

I am proposing a 75 / 60 / 45 / 30 / 15 deg. job.
Here is a comparison of the 2 valve jobs, the proposed one highest on the drawing.  The blue line shows the 30deg back cut, the green line is the stock valve seat, the magenta line is the new, hopefully much better job.

I overlay the green stock valve job to show the differences, including that although the new valve is bigger, it will not sit higher on the seat.
Given the amount of shrouding around the stock seats, which I think sits at least 1 mm too deep in the casting, I am considering fitting new seats, to advance the valves one millimeter into the combustion chamber. Clay tests will be mandatory, but then, they would be anyway.

Cheers, Finn Hammer