In addition to the e-clip issue, now your cable swage will sit right on top of the needle.  It might prevent adjustment.  If you want to raise the needle, the cable swage might interfere.  Worse yet, if the swage sits low enough, when you tighten the contraption the swage will hit the needle and break something.

Well I can certainly say the carb works. And while it isn't currently tuned for the savage, I'm impressed that a 17aud part works at all.
I'll buy a used Suzuki ls650 throttle cable and make it work by referencing  the guides on this site.

It certainly has some more power at WOT as it stands out of the box, but the slide needle is way off. And the pilot is way too big.

Inset up the new 12 dollar carb and made a new cable as I discovered the original was badly frayed at the throttle grip end.

Thanks Fast_650 for the tips.

I can see this carb is going to be a huge pain in the butt while playing with jets and needles.

With  the needle that it came with the slide would not fully seat into the short 140 main jet I fitted. I guess it requires the tall jets to seat the needle fully.
Seeing as my factory carb is rubbish and the cable was trashed, I decided to mess with the cheap needle. I tapered the end until it it fully seated and the slide closed. I put the clip in lowest  slot.
140 main and 35 pilot I could only get it to idle with the choke out. Stepping up the pilot to a 38 achieved a good idle. But the idle adjustment screw (which is plastic) made no change even when fully in.
I used a shorter spring and this worked well and I was able to get it to idle well.

I took it for a spin. darn it was faster. 90kmph in 2nd and WOT was awesome.  Idle was smooth and the spring return of the slide was nice and snappy.  Cruising however, not great. It was breaking up, kind of similar to a rev limiter. So I need to sort the needle issue. I ran out of time but I'm looking forward to doing more through the week.

With the cable fitted, removing the slide is a huge pain. Are there any tips for quick and easy needle adjustment and swaps or is this setup just a massive pita with the cap and spring setup.

Moarpower wrote on 07/08/23 at 03:19:55:


Take the cable off at the grip to gain more cable length. That will give you  more slack at the slide then.

I move the needle up two slots and reassembled and installed the carburettor.

The one downside of this carb is that it is much more painful to adjust the needle settings. Messing with the spring and cap is a huge pain.

Getting the cable anchor threaded in while holding the spring out of the way is very tedious.

When I installed with the new clip settings immediately noticed that I would need new jets as the short jets do not seat the needle correctly and dislodge the clip on the needle. I returned the clip to the lower setting and then had a hard time getting the bike to start and run.

When I had it back together the snappiness of the slide return spring was nowhere near as satisfying as it was and it was quite loose. So I obviously messed something up.
Had to go away for a couple of days but I will get back into it when I get home. I have a lot to learn with these carburettors

I got quite efficient at pulling down and reassembling the factory carb very quickly to change the needle and jets when needed.

I can see from your photos that your cable swage is still waaaaay too big.  The cable swage is supposed to go up in the cable hook and seat in a recess.  It should look like this when it is seated correctly.  See how the swage goes up into the socket.

"I used a shorter spring and this worked well and I was able to get it to idle well."

Shorter spring where?  Slide or idle stop screw?