Hey Justin,hope it wasnt me that woke you...I dont sleep real good at night so i dont really think about when i reply...if so i apologize...technically it was not running but i believed at the time it was only the starter solenoid...so i went ahead and ordered one and while i was waiting for it i went ahead and started the rewire...it was running and driving before the oil incident...when the oil shorted the starter relay is when i decided to go ahead and fix the cylinder head leak and do the rewire...my belief at the time was that the only bad part i had was the starter relay...in hindsight i should have checked to see if i had spark before the rewire just to make sure...or maybe should have traced each wire back to its source and drawn a diagram from it instead of just using a wiring diagram...maybe...idk...like i said im doubting everything i did now...while i am very new to motorcycle mechanics i was a parts installer/mechanic for about 10 years several years ago...that inly to say im not completely ignorant of mechanics(not saying you said or implied anything to the contrary,just info) but alot of the workings of this bike are most definitely a mystery to me...i did find a thread on here where a guy took his working cdi and used an ohms meter and measured all the resistance and made a chart showing what each was...ill attach the picture and show you...idk if this will actually test the functionality of it but in one way of thinking about it its capacitors and diodes inside the cdi so resistance would be important...i am completely open to any ideas help or anything,lol...my backup plan at this point is 50 cents worth of gas and a match lol....im posting the chart the guy had made on this forum,if i remembered his name i would give him all credit but i do not..im not taking credit for it or claiming ownership(hopefully that covers anyone getting mad at me for posting it...again i soooo appreciate any help and your time sooo much...i dont wish the need for it on you but if i can ever help you out please let me know!!

Hey Justin,hope it wasnt me that woke you...I dont sleep real good at night so i dont really think about when i reply...if so i apologize.

Of Course it's Your fault that I woke up. You don't have to type that hard, man. I mean, C'mon man.
Well, you're a braver man than I. I have a few strict rules when I'm working on stuff.
In no particular order ,absolutely nothing goes in the trash until it's done and running.
If something isn't running I don't do anything other than work to solve that problem. It's too easy to accidentally do something that will also make it not run.
And when they tell you to shut the motor off and rinse it off, No, if I get water in something that kills it I want to know where the water was going when it died.

When I was fixing copiers and talking to other techs I noticed how often they would be trying to figure it out and concoct some possible series of failures that would do that.
It's nearly always one problem.
I'm sure you know now how much ahead you would have been to get the solenoid and get it running before changing stuff.
What you do have is a motor that spins over and no spark, right?
If that is true, then I would pull the plug and secure it so it is grounded and should spark.
That way you can spin it over without wearing on your battery and starter so hard
And
If you do something that gets your spark back, but it just doesn't Hit,you won't know it has spark,
If the battery is needing charged it can spin over and not fire the plug.

Where can I go to see the wiring diagram?
I let my Suzuki service manual go when I sold my first one.
I'll never do That again.


Make it dependable, when you strap a plug to the motor, make it solid. If you have to wrap baling wire around the threads and run it under a bolt if you have to, but it's Not cool to be wondering. If you have a known good plug and solder to the threads, and there is no rule against taking the plug and plugging it into a mower and proving the plug is good.

Nice man!  

Thanks Yazman...i have a lot of hours into getting the bike this far and have hit a wall with the wiring...

Have you used an ohm meter to check the resistance on the primary and secondary windings of the coils? I can send you a spare if you need one. 12v at the coil? Have you used an ohm meter on the orange and green wires that run to the flywheel so see if there is a short? I hate those stupid magic voodoo CDI boxes. Mine went bad, but 2 bad ones seems unlikely. Good ground to bare metal? What about your key switch? I don't see that in your diagram. Hope you get it straightened out man!

Send me an email so I can send them.

Hey Justin,thats what i was thinking too that the cdi is pretty well sealed up but idk...i think ill make a post and ask anyone that has a 96- 2000 savage if they could do me a huge favor and let me know what readings they get at the plug for the cdi not the cdi itself to make sure i am getting the same thing...what do you think?