that new Raptor petcock will come with a clear plastic tube over the fuel inlet. That tube is to protect the screen from damage.  Make sure you remove the protective clear plastic tube before you install the petcock.

They Otta come with a
Remove before flight flag.

I think I saw it has around 15,000 miles on it.
It's time to take a look in there.

The bike was running smoothly a long time ago. Then with years or it being parked before I took it from family and my injury it started acting up.

For sure. Meaning the tensioner as mentioned? I don’t know how to check the compression, I know that’s been talked about before also so I will look that up too if these other things (fuel filter taken out, and raptor don’t work) I did see someone on here had cam chain tensioners on here. I’ll look around again. I do have video of it running but can not upload it because of file size I think

Furby wrote on 07/26/22 at 11:31:38:


plug it on the carb
cut a bit of line, fold it over and tie wrap it, or put a screw in it.

Cleaning my old KZ tank was, well, a two month ordeal.  Not trying to scare you away, just mine was BAAAAD!.  It sat in So Cal for 28 years outside when I picked it up.

Your best bet is to return the carb to stock.  No mods, no jetting, etc.  Once you get it running reliably, you can tune it IF you need to.  

So pull the carb.  

Take the float bowl off.  Make sure the float isn't stuck closed. Measure the float height and write it down.  If it's stuck, you might have found your problem, but I would still confirm you have the correct jetting.  Pull the float and needle.  Inspect the rubber tip of the needle.

Remove the main jet and write down the size.  Take note if you have a washer under the main jet.  Remove the pilot jet and take note of its size.

Now pull the top of the carb.  Make sure the diaphragm was seated correctly.  Pull the main air jet from the top and make a note of the size.  Pull the pilot air jet and note its size.  

Next, inspect the diaphragm for cracks and or leaks.  Inspect the slide for excessive wear as this can cause poor performance that you might mistake for poor jetting.  A worn slide should not keep the bike from running so no need to spend money on one until you get the bike running.

Remove the needle, taking note of how your white spacer (or washers), spring, and plate are oriented.  Write down what needle you have if there are markings.  

If in doubt, replace any and all of these parts with the stock equivalents.

The last thing you need to do before reassembling is to make sure all passages are free and clear.   If it looks like the carb might have been really gummed up at some point, the passages may still be blocked.  

If all of the above sounds like too much, obtain a replacement carb that is known to be good.