If you have the wrong mixture screw, you will never get it to work.  There are lots of carb kits out there that contain a bogus mixture screw.  That bogus screw has a needle tip that is way too small, and the body of the screw is way too long.  The screw can't throttle the fuel.  Its either "on" or "off".  You can never adjust the mixture with the bogus screw.  

Take out your mixture screw and inspect it.  Does it look like the screw shown on the bottom in this picture?  If it looks like the one on the bottom, you have the wrong screw.  It will NEVER work.

Please take a picture of your screw and post it.

Two turns out. Mine has never as far as I’ve owned it gone in like the one on the picture that you have supplied.
New spark plug has been put in already today.

Fuel filter from the petcock to the carb.

Some people get away with that, but some don't. The inside diameter of the fittings on the filter restrict flow.
Try it without it,especially if it runs for a coupla minutes, then dies. That would tell me that once the thing uses the fuel in the bowl it's running out of gas.
You could get a clue by pulling the line off the carb and just see what the delivery rate is. If you're burning gas faster than it flows into the carburetor, meh, you get it.

The stock crew does not have the shoulder, it's just threaded, like this.

Next, the shoulder for the o-ring must be straight.  the o-ring isn't gonna work with a tapered shoulder.  Correction, the o-ring isn't intended to work on a tapered shoulder, so I suspect it won't work correctly.  

The screw on the bottom has a tapered shoulder.  The screw on the top has a straight shoulder.  The stock screw has a straight shoulder.  Hence, choose the screw shown on the top of your picture, or as previously mentioned, buy a stock genuine Suzuki screw.

I see what you’re talking about man, I haven’t noticed that before!
I was going to ask about the spring/washer/o-ring and how that supposed to go on too. But it seems like what you’re saying is, my mixture screws both won’t work. As I said before, I’m waiting for a raptor petcock at the moment and I’m having a hell of a time finding parts that I need.

I appreciate the description, that makes sense. Love the solid info.
I can see that the carb kits are junk now.
I am going to try and source out an actual mikuni kit.
I had the bike in idle today with the choke on and it still shut off after 15/20 seconds.
I found that after I have it started up ( seems to be once a day ) I have to let it sit because it just won’t start again, a little burp of life but then doesn’t  fully get going.

I would quit torturing the thing until you have a few items squared away.

Figure out why it's not cranking, fix that problem, then let it rest until you get the new petcock and new mixture screw.  The "no crank" problem might be better to address in a different post. Have you tried pulling in the clutch lever while you are trying to crank it?

While you are waiting for parts, lose that fuel filter. You don't need it and they restrict fuel flow.  They also have a tendency to percolate when the engine gets hot.  They cause all sorts of mysterious problems that will drive you nuts.  Take it out and install a new fuel line.

While you are waiting for parts, check fuel flow to the carb.  Disconnect the fuel line, put a suitable container under the open fuel line, and put the petcock on prime. See how much fuel flows.  Time it.  Then when you put the new petcock on you can test again and compare.

Now hook the fuel hose up to the carb and open up the drain screw in the bottom of the float bowl.  Place a suitable container below the drain and put the petcock on prime.  See how much fuel flows.  Time it.  Then when you put the new petcock on you can test it again and compare.

Try to learn as much as you can while waiting for the correct parts.  Don't just keep cranking the engine and trying to start it when you already know it's not right.

BTW, that new Raptor petcock will come with a clear plastic tube over the fuel inlet. That tube is to protect the screen from damage.  Make sure you remove the protective clear plastic tube before you install the petcock.

Once you know you have a good petcock, the correct mixture screw, and adequate fuel flow, it's time to try and get it running.