The jets sound way too big......the adjustment screw is a "fine tuning" adjustment and some of the fuel from the pilot jet bypasses the screw.  Your jet is so big that the amount of fuel bypassing the screw is more than the engine needs to idle properly.

I start my jetting with a #50 Pilot and #150 main.

Since you are close to sea level maybe a #52.5 pilot.....but never a #57.5!

You will also never be able to get the bike to run properly with an open header.....and it will backfire and bang and pop continuously until you get a muffler on it.  And the muffler should not be one that is just a perforated tube that you can see straight through.....it should have some form of baffle.

The screw controls only a portion of the fuel that passes through the pilot jet.  IF the jet is too big then closing off the fuel screw may not help.

To choose a proper pilot jet size you get the engine fully warmed up, then drop the idle speed down to around 800 rpm while holding the bike upright so as to keep the bike level so you don't starve the right side rocker for oil at the low idle speed.  Then turn the idle fuel screw until you get the smoothest idle.  If you can turn the screw all the way in and the engine doesn't start to sputter and run uneven....the pilot jet is too big.  If you need to turn the fuel mixture screw out more than 2.5 turns the pilot jet is too small (opening the screw more than 3 turns does not increase the mixture any more).

The idle fuel screw has very little affect on any speed over idle, and the pilot jet has very little affect after 1/4 throttle opening.

Remember to turn your idle speed back to 1,100 rpm after the adjustement of the fuel screw.

Mike - I don't know what to say between the pit in my stomach, the feeling of sheer stupidity and wanting to scream/choke somebody (all on me). I guess first THANK YOU. Thanks, for the incredible post from January. You did not have to create it to help knuckleheads like me, but you did anyway. Thanks for sharing that knowledge. Thanks for having a sense of responsibility to help us knuckleheads even though we will just be on to the next poorly thought-out mistake before crying out for help! Thanks for taking the time to make sure our experience with these bikes and on this board is as valuable as possible.

Of course, you can probably already tell that my mixture screw looks exactly like the one in your Jan post. All the other parts do to! It’s been a struggle but I actually DID make the old girl run with those parts in my carb. Not well mind you and she was not happy but run she did! I saved all the parts that came out and they are soaking now to go back in with the extra added bits, like a factory gasket.

The upside is that I have had my carb off the bike and apart so many times that I can do it in a matter of minutes! I think I’m gonna go puke on my way to do just that. Thanks again for keeping us on the right track!

DBM I have a feeling the carb will finally do what I have been reading here that it SHOULD be doing! I purchsed the kit March 22nd on Amazon without doing much homework and assuming it would be fine as a first time bike "mechanic". I would agree 100% with you that it should be steered clear of and my 3 weeks of trying to get the bike to run, with really none of the carb guide adjustments working the way they were laid out, are a testament to that!

Its called - Aramox Carburetor Repair Kit, Suzuki Savage 650 86-09 15Pc Carburetor Repair Kit. This is the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXZ11VM

I agree with the OEM parts comment.  From the carb manufacturer or Suzuki.

Also, I'm blown away with how focused people are on the air screw.  It has such a minimal effect on performance.

If your screw is all the way IN and your engine is still running you need a smaller pilot jet...assuming the adjustment of the screw was done properly with the engine completely warmed up.  (ie. riding several miles before adjusting)

My sea level bike runs great with 52.5/152.5 and white spacer reduced to 1/2 thickness, pod filter. 150 main also ok.
Cheers!