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Bike sputtering on initial throttle (Read 235 times)

Gary_in_NJ

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LS650 Cafe Racer

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Amongst the Twisty Roads

Re: Bike sputtering on initial throttle
Reply #30 - 10/13/21 at 15:19:29

BB57y5e wrote on 10/13/21 at 14:13:44:
Also what torque wrench do you all suggest to buy before I start digging in to the motor

I have Craftsman torque wrenches in 1/4 (in-lbs) 3/8 and 1/2. They have served me well for decades. When I calibrate them they are never off by more then a few tenths.

Most 3/8 drive torque wrenches don’t go below 10 ft-lbs…and they aren’t very accurate at that low value. That’s why a 1/4 drive up to 240 in-lbs is a good tool as well. You can save some money by purchasing them as a kit.

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Hiko

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Re: Bike sputtering on initial throttle
Reply #31 - 10/13/21 at 16:14:16

On the bottom of the carb bowl is a black plastic tube for draining purposes
If you replace that with a clear plastic one about 6 inches long hold it up alongside the bowl and open the drain screw and petcock with the bike held level the fuel will rise up until the float valve shuts it off. the level should be near the bowl gasket level.

I just use a cheap spring torque wrench that goes up to 150 foot pounds
Covers all that I have come across The torque settings are elsewhere in this forum for the different bolts and screws

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ohiomoto

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Re: Bike sputtering on initial throttle
Reply #32 - 10/13/21 at 16:29:51

Since no one mentioned it, a sticky slide can cause a bog, but it will be a lean condition, not rich. But it's possible the rich smoke is due to a different issue.

The point is that you don't want to accidently overlook something. You can pull the airbox boot and make sure the slide response when cracking the throttle. It's vacuum operated so it might not be instant but it should be opening.

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BB57y5e

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Re: Bike sputtering on initial throttle
Reply #33 - 10/20/21 at 11:06:07

Finally got around to checking the cam chain tensioner it was out at 18-19mm so I do need to get the verlsagan mod but I don’t think that’s that issue right now also checked the valves it looked like if I did it right 1 exhaust and 1 intake was too tight so I fixed them and the engine seems to run quieter now but I havnt had the chance to take the bike out and actually run it

I did however before adjusting the valves drive the bike to class in stop in go traffic and by the time I got to class my spark plug was about to foul out as it was started misfiring ..

If when I drive the bike and the engine sounds good but still sputtering is it time to find maybe a new/used carb on eBay or does it sound like engine problems??

I have to be getting close as I have almost torn the complete bike apart by now besides the internal of the motor…

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