I bought the rebuild kit off Fleabay, from a seller called Autocparts.  The kit was in an unmarked carboard box (small).

I finally found my DR650 clutch parts.  It took some scrounging, and keeping an eye out for parts in decent shape.  As soon as those arrive, I will have a batch of stuff going to a machine shop for features I can't do here.

Enlarge pressure plate center hole
Cut spring seats in actuator plate
Mill side cover for starter gear mod

All of the brackets in the next few images are still in development, and more than likely will change shape.  So, that being said, here is the latest mock up of my "under the chain" mid controls. Nothing will be coming from the frame between the upper and lower path of the chain.  That is the design goal.  Material thicknesses are subject to design change as well.

Two "inner" plates will attach the assembly to the frame via the rear lower motor mount bolt and the tabs off the frame, and will be joined together by a length of 2" angle running across the width of the frame.  The "outer" plates that hold the shifter pivot and foot peg assembly will weld to the end of the protruding angle.  A clearance hole will be required to access the rear frame mount bolt (added tab).  Everything is still very much a rough design at this point.  I have not gotten to the right side, or the brake pedal pivot yet.  One side at a time here, folks. I will jump off that bridge when this side is finished.

This is the inner mount plate template and 2" angle.

The inner mount plate will have to be clearanced to be able to remove the shift lever (after the mid control assembly is off the bike).

This outer plate I cut from 11 ga. steel.  I think with the leverage of standing on the pegs the upper part of the plate will flex downward and bend.  I am leaning toward moving up to 3/16" thick plate instead of the 11 ga. (.120").  The inner mount plate will end up the same thickness.  No, I am not concerned about weight as this bike is already considerably light than the stock configuration, and the motor is getting all of DMB's hot rod mods.  The kickstand will clear everything, even though it looks like an interference in the pics.  Retracted position on this stand is adjustable as well.

Once again I am waiting on material to arrive before I can continue on the mid controls.  So I started to mess around with my new adjustable fork caps.  The first thing I noticed about these caps is the flat washer that rests on top of the spring spacer. It was too close to the spacer tube diameter for my comfort.  Under higher preloads the flat washer could push into the spacer tube.  After measuring,  The spacer tube OD was about 1.25" with a wall thickness of .023".  Really thin wall!  The flat washer measured at 1.22" in diameter.  This wasn't going to work.  Using the spacer tube as a guide, I traced a circle onto some sheet, and used the marker as a guide to grind back the metal.  I left a little marker intact to ensure the new washer was in fact bigger than the spacer.  I only had 16 ga., and the original washer was 14 ga.  Concerned about the new washer bending, I decided to use both - the larger in contact with the spacer tube.  I made a countersink in the original washer to gain enough space for the cotter pin to still fit.  Now there is added strength and the washer can't push into the spacer tube.

Added countersink to gain room for the extra washer under the cotter pin