If there is E10 where you live, and your winter is more than a few weeks long - drain the carb and fuel tank.  And put a piece of tape over the key hole in the fuel cap to seal off the vent.

It is also a good idea to remove the spark plug and add "fogging oil" to protect the cylinder.

https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/fogging-engine-proper-use-fogging-oils/

I watched this video, and although I don't agree with this Project Farm fellow on a lot of his videos he did a good job on this one.  My biggest complaint about his videos is that when he tests products in his lawn mower engines, he never puts them under a load.  He just lets the engine run on his shop floor or driveway where the engine is not working  Take the lawn mower out and cut the grass and make it work - I do think that the result may be different if the engine is under a load where it pulls more fuel/air through the engine and runs hotter!  The other problem I have is that so many of his test are very short term....you can't find much out about long term performance when you only use a product for a small amount of time.


I did my own long term fuel test, and as a result I don't let any fuel sit in my equipment that has a carb.  Fuel injected equipment works a bit different, as the fuel is sealed inside the injection system and the fuel keeps better - but I do make sure I use "ethanol free fuel" for the last tank of fuel each year and I add fuel stabilizer before storage.  (I have to go to a boat marina to get ethanol free fuel where I live).
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1382699778

Stihl recommends in their owners manuals that if you are not going to use the equipment for 2 months - drain the fuel tank and start the engine and let it run out of fuel before you put it away.

If you store your equipment with fuel in it......you are taking a chance that your carb and fuel tank will be damaged.  My Suzuki Savage gets the fuel drained every year........so far in 8 years of ownership I have never had to clean the carb, and the engine starts immediately each spring when I add the fresh fuel.  (Your results may vary - I am just telling you what works for me).

The fuel in the bowl will evaporate and leave green slime,, How long ? Well,, depends on temperature and humidity,,
Let the bowl evaporate off,, YOull know it did, because it wont start, because there is no or not enuff fuel in the bowl,, By the time some people realize they should use Prime,, the battery is too low to fire the plug,,
If you do that once and dont let it turn into too hard of a layer of gunk,, it might clear out if ya ride, ride, ride,,
Best,, dont do that..

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/26/20 at 10:04:16:


I did just that on my spring ride, and got a more yelow exhauste pipe and blue on other parts.

It was 10 centigrades, soo full choke at start!

In any case, I put alkylate petrol and a bottle of STP fuel cleaning in my tank and ride and ride.

Hope that I get rid of the slime anyway.. if there was there in the first place?

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/26/20 at 16:16:07:


Thanks a lot Justin.. but you probably didnt realised that I live in Sweden?
I dont know about Sea Foam, im living at the west coast in Sweden and thats just saying me.. Foam frome the sea.. yea I have seen that.

And to the tractor suply.. I think this is the same as our farmer suply depoe?

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/26/20 at 19:56:40:


I get your message and then I Google Sea Fome and find this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=a6pHSn8lLAQ

In anyway. I probably gonna stick to STP fuel cleaning becuse its more common in my country.
In any other case.. E10 or not.. its this slime in our carburators, perticuly mine that got standing for at least 6 months!