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Help!!! (Read 134 times)
DragBikeMike
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Re: Help!!!
Reply #15 - 03/30/20 at 15:12:52
 
Thanks again to all of you.  I have a lot more confidence after getting your advice.  I ordered a new switch.  I should have it within a week or so.  I'm pretty sure that once that switch is installed the lathe will be operational.  I'll let you know how it works out.

Matchless, thanks for the offer of the switch.  If the one I ordered falls through, I will get in touch with you.  These DPST toggle switches are really a poor selection for starting a motor.  It really needs something more on the order of a spring loaded contact that slams the contacts closed.  But this DPST switch has been working good for about 20 years.

The lathe was delivered with a rotary switch that incorporated a spring loaded contact system.  It self destructed in short order.  That thing had killer springs.  I replaced it with a system that uses two DPDT switches to select direction of rotation, and the one DPST switch to energize the system.

Again, thanks.  I appreciate the help.  Electrons are not my forte.  Wink
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Matchless G11
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Re: Help!!!
Reply #16 - 03/31/20 at 10:12:50
 
while you are in there. I would replace the capacitor too.

here is a suggestion
https://www.grainger.com/product/PACKARD-Round-Motor-Start-Capacitor-44ZU53

It look like the cap date code 8  -88 meaning 8 week 1988.
old caps may be leaky and pass more current, That "might" have cooked your switch.
Just like a burnt exhaust valve, one has to look else where for why it failed.  


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DragBikeMike
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Re: Help!!!
Reply #17 - 03/31/20 at 23:57:04
 
Thanks for the link on the capacitors.  I'll measure the dimensions on mine and see if these Grainger units will fit.  The ones on there now don't have the resistor, is that a problem?

Aren't the caps out of the loop almost as soon as the rotor starts turning?  The centrifugal switch seems to cycle almost instantaneously.
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Matchless G11
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Re: Help!!!
Reply #18 - 04/01/20 at 10:56:56
 
DragBikeMike wrote on 03/31/20 at 23:57:04:
Thanks for the link on the capacitors.  I'll measure the dimensions on mine and see if these Grainger units will fit.  The ones on there now don't have the resistor, is that a problem?

Aren't the caps out of the loop almost as soon as the rotor starts turning?  The centrifugal switch seems to cycle almost instantaneously.


I think the resistor may be a large value to bleed down the cap after use.
(safety issue)

But not sure, and for the second question not sure either, But I do know quite a but of current can be pulled by bad caps in a very short time.
(I run into this quite often.)
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