JohnsonLager wrote on 03/11/20 at 16:51:12:srinath - if I'm understanding you, I should be able to see a voltage burst at the coil? If that's the case, I don't believe I am getting a burst.
I have replaced the coil because I had one from a previous misdiagnosis and if I assume because it is new it is in working condition, I can rule out the coil as the culprit.
I will go ahead and test it and I will test the regulator and if both seem to be in working order I am going to order a CDI.
When the inductive pickup sees the holes in the alternator rotor it would send a signal to the TCI, that will send a short burst of battery voltage to the low voltage side of the coil. If the coil is definitely good, you can just check for spark which is on the high voltage side of the coil. Its kinda hard to see that split second burst with a digital gauge. It might not even catch it. Analog gauges with the right range setting may still only make a short kick but if you keep looking at it you may catch that. Testing a coil is much easier on the spark plug side.
The inductive pickup does not have battery voltage running to it, I would assume it is safe in this situation. It basically sees metal and has one inductance and suddenly sees no metal and its inductance changes. You can measure across its plug for a change in resistance and turn it to the solid part of the rotor, then holes and leave it there and take your 2 measurements. They should be significantly different. That's a clue its working as intended. For good measure check its specs in the manual and compare.
Some bikes like my GS500 have the opposite type too, they see no metal till the nose of the ignition advancer flies past them. They sense rpm using the duration the metal is close to them. We grind off 1/2 that and it thinks its at a higher rpm and gives you higher advance. In a savage we need to fill the last hole in the rotor, a much harder and imprecise thing to do to get the same result.
Cool.
Srinath.