SuzukiSavage.com - Brake lights stuck in the "on" position

batman Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 3806 osceola new york Gender:	Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position Reply #15 - 05/27/19 at 21:56:54 Then move the nut upward lowering the body of the switch, until the spring is completely compressed, would be logical ?
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MidLifeRider

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position
Reply #16 - 05/28/19 at 06:58:56

Ok, now you narrowed it down to the rear switch.

Watch these to check adjustment of the switch and to make sure it's seated properly.

Start at 4:32 mark on this video

https://youtu.be/j5gT02TVCro

Another

https://youtu.be/j5gT02TVCro

If the switch is adjusted correctly then my next step would be to check the cable to make sure it isn't stuck in the "on" position. Shine a flashlight on the spring. One end attached to the plunger and the other is attached to the cable. Depress the brake pedal and watch the end of the cable. If it doesn't pull in the spring, then the cable is frrozen in the casing due to corrosion. Given the age of your bike and the position of that cable, it is a likely scenario.

Be patient we'll get it figured out.

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DavidOfMA

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" posit
Reply #17 - 05/28/19 at 07:02:57

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. The spring has to be lengthened by about 1/4 inch for the plunger to be far enough in so the brake light goes off. The compressed spring holds it in the "on" position, so further compressing it won't fix the problem.

Either the switch has some kind of internal spring that's busted, or there's a mechanism that pulls on the rear of the switch to keep the plunger in, and that mechanism isn't working.

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MidLifeRider YaBB Newbies Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 16 Woodbridge, Virginia Gender:	Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position Reply #18 - 05/28/19 at 08:34:38 If you take the spring off the cable and the plunger moves in and out with no resistance, then you may be correct and a new switch is in order. And you said you weren't mechanically inclined. Sounds like you have skills after all.
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DavidOfMA

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" posit
Reply #19 - 05/28/19 at 19:20:28

Rained all day here (and no garage), so I didn't have a chance to check out your suggestions. I suspect the cable, as I didn't see any movement of the spring when I pressed on the rear brake, but I'll see what happens if I unhook the spring.

I did watch that first video earlier but at the time I couldn't find the switch. Now it makes more sense.

You are saying that the plunger should normally be in the fully retracted position, right? What should the spring do when the switch/cable system is operating normally?

In any case, I'll report back once it stops raining and I have a little time to play with it.

Actually, I am mechanically inclined and used to be good with bikes and cars in my youth. I once, for instance, seized a piston on a Yamaha 200, broke it free, drove 1000 miles, and then took the bike apart in a friend of a friend's basement, got the cylinders bored out and new pistons, and put it back together again and rode another 1500 miles back home.

Compared to you guys, I'm still a dunce, but on this bike, I have managed to change out the cam chain adjuster, permanently fix the backfiring problem, and replace the rusted-out exhaust. But I don't have the ability to visualize how things are supposed to work, anymore, and seem to need a lot of visual guidance in order to get things done.

Which is a long-winded way of saying, thanks for your help!

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MidLifeRider

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position
Reply #20 - 05/31/19 at 05:15:06

"I really hate sounding like the mechanical idiot"

Sorry if I misinterpreted that statement as you saying you weren't mechanically inclined. Based on your last post, you obviously are and probably have more experience than me.

"You are saying that the plunger should normally be in the fully retracted position, right? What should the spring do when the switch/cable system is operating normally?"

Yes, the plunger should retract into the switch body. In my bike the plunger is exposed approximately 5/16" at rest. When activated it extends an additional 5/16". At rest, the spring should have a little tension on it showing slight gaps between the coils. If the spring isn't stretching when you press the pedal, the I would suspect the cable too.

Sounds like you pretty much have it worked out.

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DavidOfMA Senior Member Offline Getting back in gear after a long time away Posts: 336 Beverly, MA Gender:	Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position Reply #21 - 05/31/19 at 06:09:29 Thanks. That pretty much confirms the diagnosis as a stuck cable. I appreciate all your help.
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batman

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" posit
Reply #22 - 05/31/19 at 12:25:08

Why do you think the line between the pedal and the switch contains a spring at all? It's there to allow you to "cover" the brake pedal ( place your foot on it, and slightly depress it , to prepare to stop or slow if need be ,without actually activating the tail lamp's stop filament .You have two ways to deal with it ,you can lower the switch , allowing it to retract the 1/4 inch it needs to go off , or loosen the nut on the end of brake cable to allow the pedal to rise slightly making the cable have slightly less tension again allowing the switch to retract and the light to go off . Perhaps it's time to go out to the bike and actually try something. If that fails perhaps ,because your bike sits out you may try greasing the back of the brake pedal and the cables as that is standard maintenance (every 12 months/4,000 miles .

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justin_o_guy2 Serious Thumper Offline What happened? Posts: 55279 East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.	Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" position Reply #23 - 05/31/19 at 14:06:30 My grandma had a souvenir ashtray, It said Don't just Do Something STAND THERE...
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DavidOfMA

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" posit
Reply #24 - 05/31/19 at 19:46:02

Thanks for your advice, batman. However, I'm sure the problem is the cable.

I checked the front switch and determined that it was not the problem. I checked the rear switch and determined that it worked properly. I checked the cable and determined that nothing moved along the parts of it that I could reach when I depressed the brake, no matter how hard I depressed it. I sprayed penetrating oil onto everything I could reach and tried again the next day. No movement at all. I concluded that the cable was frozen in the "on" position, which is why the spring isn't moving and the switch is always on.

I'd rather replace a 12-year-old, corroded cable than try to un-stick it, so I'll do that when I have a replacement cable, which I've ordered. I also try to disassemble only what I need to, as I've broken bolts on this bike before, despite repeated applications of penetrating oil, heat, and cold.

Thank you all for your help. As I mentioned, I'm somewhat spatially challenged, in terms of visualizing, and the photos, videos, and explanations really helped me understand how this was supposed to work, and then to determine what wasn't working right.

David

batman wrote on 05/31/19 at 12:25:08:

Why do you think the line between the pedal and the switch contains a spring at all? It's there to allow you to "cover" the brake pedal ( place your foot on it, and slightly depress it , to prepare to stop or slow if need be ,without actually activating the tail lamp's stop filament .You have two ways to deal with it ,you can lower the switch , allowing it to retract the 1/4 inch it needs to go off , or loosen the nut on the end of brake cable to allow the pedal to rise slightly making the cable have slightly less tension again allowing the switch to retract and the light to go off . Perhaps it's time to go out to the bike and actually try something. If that fails perhaps ,because your bike sits out you may try greasing the back of the brake pedal and the cables as that is standard maintenance (every 12 months/4,000 miles .

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batman

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Re: Brake lights stuck in the "on" posit
Reply #25 - 05/31/19 at 22:43:32

Well you really should just remove the two large 17mm nuts on the long bolts that hold the heat shield on right side of the bike that protects your shoe when it's on the peg, than slip off the plate and twist it over, perhaps the cables are just hung up, or the return spring isn't positioned to raise the brake pedal fully when it's released. The end of the spring needs to be pushed /tucked above the through bolt when replacing the plate , to force the pedal to return .

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« Last Edit: 06/02/19 at 06:33:20 by batman »

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