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Chain Tensioner (Read 210 times)
ZSteele
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Chain Tensioner
05/01/19 at 13:19:56
 
So I have my sprockets set at 14/45. Starting to work on the rest of the project and realized with the longer shocks on the chain is directed too close to the swingarm pivot point (it essentially rests on the pivot point). Would it be possible to put some kind of chain tensioner so the chain has to go up and over the pivot point or should I just regear with a 17/52?
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batman
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #1 - 05/01/19 at 19:13:09
 
Shorter shocks ?  would probably cure the chain problem  as well as ridding you of that huge gap between your tire and fender .
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« Last Edit: 05/01/19 at 21:23:07 by batman »  

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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #2 - 05/01/19 at 19:43:35
 
That would be the smart way wouldn't it. . . Really trying to get that caboose up though!
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #3 - 05/01/19 at 21:40:28
 
The shocks have changed the angle of the swingarm too much . and both 14/45 or 17/52 raise your drive ratio above stock . Is this a red light racer?
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Ruttly
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #4 - 05/01/19 at 22:36:46
 
I love this low budget racer , very cool
Chain tensioner is the answer
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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #5 - 05/02/19 at 07:02:39
 
batman: thats probably the best description, I live 20 minutes from work and routinely take back roads to ride longer. I did my research before doing the chain conversion and specifically went for a higher ratio. I may have some distance riding coming up this summer but most of the time its just for commuting.

I guess my only concern is that I'm missing something and making a deathtrap in regards to the swingarm. Im hoping the 17/52 will allow me to clear the pivot point but if not I contacted CLMototech about his rebuild option and if I can I'll have him send me back some 320mm shocks in exchange for my 340s.

Ruttly: Gemme a couple weeks, working out a frame hoop and I have everything to fiberglass a seat pan and upholster it. Arts and crafts are much funner when you get to ride them afterwards Wink
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #6 - 05/02/19 at 09:48:54
 
Arts and crafts are much funner when you get to ride them afterwards Wink...

Have you considered robotics?
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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #7 - 05/02/19 at 09:56:59
 
I have! Dabbled a bit in arduino and coding but Uncle Sam says thats not what we pay you for and my brain started hurting when things didn't work as intended.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #8 - 05/02/19 at 10:48:53
 
I'll bet that if you went to the Comedy Club your whole reason for going would be to heckle the comedians.
You ABSOLUTELY sucked all the funny outta my, in my mind, hilarious reply.
It's okay. I'll find another opportunity for a giggle.
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #9 - 05/02/19 at 11:02:00
 
ZSteele.300mm (11.5 ")  may be even better, it would give you 1inch more travel(over stock) ,and might allow you to retain the chain and sprockets you already have.
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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #10 - 05/02/19 at 11:06:31
 
justin: oops, just reread yo ur reply and got it -.-

batman: went digging into the forums and found this thread (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1477621252/60)
looks like 320 is the max anyones gotten away with and 300 would give me plenty of headroom. Ill update in the coming week with how things end up!
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #11 - 05/02/19 at 11:22:09
 
That 320mm was belt drive,with the larger ( 25 tooth vs 23) Kawasaki front pulley, your 14 tooth gear diameter is much smaller ,bringing the chain closer to the pivot point , that's why I suggested 300mm might work. you may still need to go to larger sprockets.
      Jacking the bike and removing your shocks ,then lowering it slowly until the chain just clears the pivot point ,then measuring the distance between your shock mounts ,should give you the actual length of the shocks you need.
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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #12 - 05/05/19 at 10:36:01
 
Shower thought: would I be messing with frame integrity or meddling in something catastrophic if I simply moved the rear shock mounts up the frame tubes? The shocks would end up slightly more vertical but since I'm planning on chopping/replacing the fender and fabricating a new seat pan anyways I could work those around the new shock mounts.

Thoughts?
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #13 - 05/05/19 at 11:47:06
 
I've seen this idea work to lower shocks , but they were actually lowered by moving the bottom shock mount farther back toward the axle , I think you would gain more by doing that , and it would be much simpler . Unless you are a competent welder, it may  cost more to have it done than to buy shorter shocks.
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ZSteele
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Re: Chain Tensioner
Reply #14 - 05/05/19 at 12:22:16
 
I'm learning to weld, definitely won't be the first thing I tackle. I'll take a look at the swing arm tabs and see which looks easier to weld. From a little snooping around other forums it seems the more vertical the shocks the easier they compress and vice versa, I feel like having them too horizontal would put more stress on the mounts and shocks themselves. On the other end swapping springs to something firmer seems like less of a headache than worrying about mounts failing.
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