I agree with Dave, start with the battery, all other electrical connection issues can not be accurately assessed if the source of the electricity is not performing to standard.    

batman wrote on 04/18/19 at 16:42:32:


True - but I bet far more batteries go bad than ground strap issues.  Vinny68 has not let us know how old the battery is....at this point we are all just speculating based on our experiences.  I have never had a ground strap go bad......I have had to replace batteries in every bike I have owned (Probably because I buy used bikes and the batteries are already several years old when I buy them).  I find it a bit odd that car batteries seem to give you plenty of warning that they are getting old as they start cranking the engine over noticeably slower before they fail - while motorcycle batteries work fine....then suddenly don't.

It doesn't hurt to check both......but since you suggested he check the ground strap in Post #10 - I didn't see any reason to repeat it.

When chasing electrical gremlins - I always start at the battery and work my way outward in the circuit.

If the bike started several times......then the battery and ground strap are likely fine.  A 2014 with the original battery means it may be 5 years old - however the bike may not have sold in 2014 and they likely did not activate the battery until it was sold......sometimes these bikes can sit on the showroom floor for a year two.

If the problem is intermittent and you can get the problem to go away by jiggling wires or turning the handlebars......I would suggest removing the tank and checking the connectors for tightness or corrosion.

Here is a link to the wiring diagrams in the Tech Section.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1294779818

When the neutral light (and starter circuit) go out.....does everything else still work (lights, turns signals, horn, etc)?

The indicator lights in the speedometer are spliced into the wires for the turn signals and high beam - so you could completely unhook the speedometer indicator light harness and the bike would still function normally - However it could be the Neutral light is required for the stater circuit to work.....as it is connected to the diode in the starter circuit and may have to be in the circuit for the starter to work (I am not certain of this).  In order to check this connector you will have to get the tank up off the frame....this requires removing the seat, unhooking petcock vacuum and fuel lines - the stock vacuum petcock also hits the frame and will need to be removed on most bikes.....then you can unbolt the back of the tank and slide it back out of the front mounts and tip the front of the gas tank up to reach the connector (you will not have to unhook the speedometer cable unless you remove the tank).

The other harness connectors you should check are on the left and right side of the frame....you may be able to reach them without removing the fuel tank.  They are at the front of the tank very near to the bottom.   

I think I found it, I pulled the seat and the tank off the bike and began checking the electrical couplers.  The one on right side under the tank, directly off the starter switch was loose.  I gave it pull and it popped right apart.  I snapped it back together and put a zip tie on it, I do not think that it will be coming loose again.  Thanks again for all the help gentlemen, I appreciate it.

The one on right side under the tank, directly off the starter switch was loose.

No Kidding? Too bad nobody suggested looking for a connector under the tank that is vibrating loose a few days ago..

I had wiggled the wiring harness but nothing happened, the neutral lite did not even flicker.  It was not till I pulled the tank off and could peel back the cover that I could tell the plug was not secure.  It looked to be in far enough to power everything but when the starter button was pushed, I wonder if it arced.