The sides of the pulley near the shaft need to be the same as the stock pulley. Just measure and copy. The kaw pulley is hardened and you will need to take small cuts and sharpen your tool bit often, or use a grinder as it turns on the lathe, and finish with a pass with a cutting bit to true it up.
You can cut the dia. of both side flanges down to the height of the belt. Easiest to do on a lathe, then round the tops off with a file. While it is chucked up, smooth off the peening on the sides A LITTLE, don't get carried away on the sides or the flanges can loosen up or fall off. (THAT WOULD BE BAD)
You will still need to grind the case a small amount with a hand grinder, fit the cut-down pulley by hand and you will see where. Don't put the belt on or tighten it down till you are sure it clears everything.
All and all pretty easy,IF, you have access to a lathe.

Dave, The last one I did took about a hour. The grinder don't care if the stock is hard or soft, just makes different color sparks. Use the grinder to take off 90-95%, then just clean it to true with a cutting bit. Saves a lot of time.

all leaks will find their way to the lowest part of the bike, which is...

left side peg.

sometimes the oil seeps into the thru bolt holes in the case.  retorque them and you're good to go.

So if i remove the bolt altogether it turns into a drain plug?   I guess you are never to old to learn something new!

Drifter.. wrote on 09/30/18 at 10:34:35:


The bolt hole does not go into the crankcase - but when the bolt is loosened it allows oil to seep out the mating surface of the two crank halves....and for some reason it likes to seep into the hole the bolt goes through.

So....it will work as a drain plug if you have 10-12 years to wait!