I recently had to remove my header along with the muffler to do the cam tensioner check. While removing the header bolts, one broke on me. Got it removed fairly easy, not too much cussing. Had to chase the threads with a die once the bolt was out. Seems the PO didn’t know what anti-seize is. The bolt that broke was a stock header bolt and the one that did not was a 10.9 flange bolt. This got me thinking on the best thing to use during re-install, bolts versus studs. After searching on here I found several threads that suggest the use of studs over bolts. I like the idea of studs due to the difference in materials and would prefer to not have to deal with a broke off bolt. That said, I began to search for a stud option but can’t seem to find a compatible solution. I’ve looked at ARP kits, tried Fastenal and looked at options on McMaster-Carr. Found several ARPs that might work but nothing that will be tall enough to get past the exhaust clamp.

The most viable solution I have found seems to be to making the studs. The best candidate I have found is black oxide socket head screws from McMaster-Carr (see link below). They have the tensile strength common with header bolts/ studs (170,000). From this I could cut the head off where I need it to be then thread on nuts. I’d have to double nut them to snug them into the head.

Which leads to the next subject, what nuts to use for final attachment of the header pipe and clamp? Brass has been suggested in many places on the Interwebs but not for our specific application. Also the brass nuts are typically much taller than a ‘normal’ nut. I also can’t find these easily.

So ultimately my questions are, is it worth using studs? What is the best option for studs? What is the best material, considering brittleness, and the aluminum head material? I know the torque values are not extremely high for the stock bolts, so I may be over-engineering this.

My main concern is the periodic cam tensioner check and having to remove the header pipe. I may just feel burnt from the recent bolt breakage, so if flange bolts or stock bolts and anti-seize are the way to go, please say so. But if you have suggestions, pros/ cons for studs and most importantly sources for studs and nuts please help a member out  

Thanks.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a215/=1djnzgi

Why make this hard ? buy stock bolts and use some antiseize.

batman wrote on 07/03/18 at 06:32:44:


After all
It was a lack of Antisieze that caused the problem.

Thanks to everyone for the responses. You all have reassured me that stock is the way to go with the proper anti-seize. I have Loctite Silver Anti-Seize Stick that states it is rated for 1600° and is rated for cylinder head and exhaust bolts.