OK, I pulled the carb...how far do I have to break it down before placing it cleaner?  
My understanding is that all of the plastic parts should come off....do I need to pull the jets and needles out or will it work if I simply dunk it? (I think the pilot jet is the problem since starting is the issue).
FWIW, I am using the gallon can of GUNK carb parts cleaner that comes with a parts bucket....I also have the Clymer S40 manual.

That includes the TEV valve diaphragm .and be sure you check and clean the small passage in the "finger" .You should also remove the choke,  The mix screw and float valve seat have O-rings but they deal with fuel so shouldn't be affected.

AND ...besides the jets the carb body itself has numerous tiny passageways in the carb throat on the filter side and on the engine side, and under the little cover on the right side (the one with 3 screws), and on the underside that is covered by the float bowl.
Most all of those little passageways are inter-connected with the pilot system, including the choke.
There are lots of places that can be clogged and any one or combos can frustrate your tuning and riding pleasure.

Is the Berryman spray a better option better than the dip method for someone with little carb experience?  I am thinking the less I pull apart, the less chance of jacking things up. It sounds like the spray method might be easier too, not requiring rinsing and then blowing it out with air.

PS - what  are the two hoses that "go to nowhere" on the carb? ...they point forward on the bike when the carb is in place....I did the Raptor Petcock change but didn't mess with them....

Better?
I can't say.
I've never used the dip.
Berrymans has cleaned every carb I've dealt with, and that's a fair number.
A good light, good eyes, a snooty attitude towards crud, and a Real careful approach to avoid the spray getting shot back in your face is important.
I use a torch cleaning tool for jets.
Never change the size of the jet with it.
Be patient and gentle and you can win.
You can even carefully squirt Berrymans into a small metal bowl and soak jets.
That button doesn't need pushed all the way down for some things.

edison wrote on 05/16/18 at 12:54:11:


As others have said break it down all the way and be serious about cleanliness and accounting for all the parts. It is not hard at all and it is good to learn. I also use Berryman dip and highly recommend it.

Under the float valve seat, is  a tiny screen (fuel filter) be sure to clean it too.

Before I take my carb apart.....I will spray it with degreaser and brush off the major crud before I take it apart and put it in the ultrasonic cleaner.  It keeps the cleaner in the ultrasonic from getting all the oil and crud in the ultrasonic.

I have also started to use the Krud Kutter Parts Cleaner in my ultasonic.  Some cleaners like Simple Green or Purple Power can etch aluminum and remove the shiny casting surface.....and then it leaves a surface that is harder to keep clean and corrodes easier (read the label and some warn not to use the product on aluminum).

Don't use the heater in the ultrasonic with the Krud Kutter - it turns the cleaner into a gel.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-1-gal-Parts-Washer-Cleaner-Degreaser-...