Yes sir, but the fuel is far away from the jets etc. where it can do less harm.

caferacer wrote on 05/07/18 at 18:09:42:


The current formula of the T4 has 1,200 ppm of ZDDP....that is enough and no additional ZDDP is necessary.

How much gas got in the oil?  If it is just a little bit I would just drain the sump and leave filter alone.  If the oil level raised considerably....I would change the oil and filter.  Dumping oil on an engine that has run a week ago is not nearly as potentially destructive as doing it to an engine that has sat for weeks, months, years without being started.  

Gas evaporates at very low temperature ,and your oil runs at least 270 F ,the little bit that may still be in the filter will be turn into fumes and end up going through the vent tube and into your carb.
    Adding products like  ZDDP , or Sta-bil to your gas tank at every fill up as some have said ,is something I've always avoided. Nobody seems to take into account that you never drain out all the oil or gas from your bike so that adding a standard amount each time actually builds up the level of these over time . ZDDP level in the oil your about to use(1200) will be enough to protect your motor, 1600 is said to be max, 1800 is to much and can damage your motor. Unless you add more ZDDP ,the level, just using T-4 ( or T-6 Syn.) can never be over 1200.

I run my engine out (or low enough that the engine stops) on my way home after each ride - the "STOP" sign down the street is my landmark and the bike begins to sputter as I start down my driveway.

Is this "anal"?  Yes it likely is - but I have not had to clean or rebuild my carb and I don't worry that there is any gunk building up if I don't ride for an extended period.

The photo below shows what can happen with the fuel we get in Kentucky.  This photo shows Shell Premium Pump gas that was placed in a plastic bottle that had a small vent hole drilled in the cap to simulate the fuel tank vent - I stored this in my pole barn so it could get the daily temperature and humidity swings that my yard equipment experiences.  The dark yellow liquid at the bottom is the Phase Separation where the absorbed moisture and ethanol combined and dropped out of suspension in the gasoline.  I don't want that crap in the bottom of my float bowl.


 

 

NORM  I your case I can't see it making much sense ,In Dave's case he has a few bikes and may not ride the same one as often ,so It might make more sense. Dave said he hasn't had to clean his carb since he been doing this and he has bad gas , I've never had to clean my carb or rebuild it ,I run 87 (E-10) gas ,but it 's the only bike I have on the road . It doesn't sit more than a day or two during the riding season.As for having the last word ,I guess I'm an opinionated old fart, but I base my answer to my knowledge base (and I'm often wrong) but If your running gas with ethanol ,you might consider the fact that ethanol prefers to bind with water rather than gas. When you drop the level of the fuel in the bowl your exposing more surface area of the remaining fuel to outside air that enters through the bowl vents. the humidity in the air will be absorbed degrading you fuel ,and water being heaver that gas settles to the bottom of the bowl, this may form crud that could go into suspension when you refill the bowl and be carried into the jets , that is why I refrain from doing what you do. It may cause more harm than good.

ohiomoto wrote on 05/09/18 at 09:31:00:


There must be a huge difference in fuel quality in different areas of the country.

The lady that bought my Savage rescue bike 2 years ago called me last spring, as she could not get the bike started.  She doesn't winterize her bike.  I checked everything over, it had fuel, it had spark, it had compression.  Prior to putting the spark plug back in I put a bit of fuel in the cylinder.  When I put the bike back together it fired right up.  This year when she called, I explained to her husband how to drain the float bowl and allow some fresh fuel to flow through the carb - after they did that it started right up.

It is obvious to me that the fuel left in the carb for extended periods just doesn't work with the fuel we have in Kentucky (at least until July 1 when the reformulated fuel goes away).

Success!

Oil changed to Rotella T4 in 15w-40
Petcock changed to Yamaha Raptor
Carb recleaned
Float valve and float bowl gasket replaced

Started up after a dozen cranks and after petcock was switched to reserve position.  Would die within three minutes or so if I left petcock to on position but ran dependably with petcock to reserve position.  Thought I put at least 3/4 of a gallon in the tank so was suprised I had to leave it in reserve position.  Will completely fill up tank tomorrow and re-expiriment with the on position.

Still some pesky afterfiring when engine breaking, but from what I have read on this forum, some afterfiring is normal for a well-tuned Savage carb during abrupt throttle roll-offs.  But how do I know how much afterfiring is too much?  The noise itself doen't bother me at all.  But I don't want to do damage to my muffler.  I also hear a light but consistent "poof" when I turn off the engine.  Is the afterfiring and poofing upon turnoff a symptom of running too rich?  Should a slight tightning of the mixtire screw help reduce the afterfiring, or is that a mis-diagnosis of the cause?

Many thanks for everyone's input on this thread!  The bike is certainly in a better state than when I reached out for help.